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Steri-prune question?

Posted: December 19th, 2010, 2:15 pm
by Tinmonkey
I have a question regarding the use of steri-prune paint to seal wounds.
I have looked through a lot of posts but cant seem to find the relevant info :?
Will this aid or inhibit the wound growing over?
From what I can understand the Japanese cut pastes allow callusing to occur beneath the paste. Will steri-prune do the same thing?
Just wondering as one of my neighbours gave me a tin of the stuff.
Is it worth using?

Thanks in advanvce

Daniel

Re: Steri-prune question?

Posted: December 19th, 2010, 3:42 pm
by Fish
i remove my statement...lol... found new information...

Fish

Re: Steri-prune question?

Posted: December 19th, 2010, 3:52 pm
by alpineart
Hi Tinmonkey , the only sealer i have ever used is Stri-prune .It does dry the cut out relatively quickly and is designed to do so .It will inhibit callousing if it is painted right up to the bark .You should leave a thin area 1-1.5 mm from the bark to allow the callous to form . It is the powerful Hydrocarbons that dry out the wood and it tend to burn the cut bark .I usually carve the area that is painted or carve then paint with steri-prune to give the aged darker look rather than use lime sulfur which gives the bleached blonde look . Big Desert Ash shows the carving painted with steri-prune .Big plum versus sthil also show the same use .Hope this helps . Cheers Alpineart

Re: Steri-prune question?

Posted: December 19th, 2010, 4:01 pm
by rch003
I used steri-prune on my maple a couple years ago, its not really bad dead wood, but it hasn't started to heal, i will just use knob cutters and remove it soon.

Re: Steri-prune question?

Posted: December 19th, 2010, 5:20 pm
by Damian Bee
:2c: I have used and still use Kendon grafting mastic on cuts. It is a purple wax that is made in Australia :aussie: for sealing up grafts and cuts and it is fairly cost effective too. It has been very effective and although it does not have all the hormones and jazz in it, callousing is still rapid and after a 2-3 years a 10mm wide cut is pretty much healed up (species dependent of course). The one set back that it can have is that on really baking hot days it melts but still covers the wound.
I tried PVA glue once (and only once) as when it rains it starts to break down and does not really do the job.

Re: Steri-prune question?

Posted: December 19th, 2010, 7:00 pm
by Mitchell
Is steriprune in a can different to the tin...? I thought the tin was a bitumen base... what's the aerosol then? It's been years since I looked in a tin, I believe it was black at one stage, is it still now?

Re: Steri-prune question?

Posted: December 19th, 2010, 9:40 pm
by alpineart
Hi Mitchell , the tin with a bitumen based steri-prune paint is all i've used as a wound sealer .Cheers Alpine

Re: Steri-prune question?

Posted: December 19th, 2010, 9:55 pm
by Mitchell
Interesting Alpine, as that is what I know. So what the aerosol though.? I'll spray some at work tomorrow but I am fairly sure the can is clear... I wonder what that is..? :lost:

Re: Steri-prune question?

Posted: December 21st, 2010, 10:21 pm
by Tony Bebb
Hi All

Steri prune is a great product to seal a wound, and grafting mastic will do a good job of sealing also.

To HEAL a wound there is no better than the Japanese cut pastes, but they generally won't heal a very large cut on a lot of species. It also depends on which one you use.

As Alpine said, he uses it to seal large cuts and carved areas which is a great use of this product. Lime sulphur is great to get the bleached effect, but is not really a sealer, rather than protecting from insect attack on dead wood. That's where the wood hardeners come in handy. The bleach look is over-rated on some species :imo:

Tony

Re: Steri-prune question?

Posted: December 21st, 2010, 11:19 pm
by kvan64
I've used both Steri-prune and Japanese cut paste and can't find much different result. The one thing I found is steri-prune is easier to apply in larger cut areas and Japanese cut paste is less messy.
I found that the large cuts on my smarty pants boug heal nicely with steripurne. I applied steriprune to my flame maples, privets, crabapples for larger wounds/cuts and found that the callousing actually occurs between the old bark and the deadwood. I actually like this as I only need to rub off the old bark to reveal nice callousing underneath.
Cheers,
DK

Re: Steri-prune question?

Posted: December 22nd, 2010, 7:41 am
by Glenda
Mitchell wrote:Interesting Alpine, as that is what I know. So what the aerosol though.? I'll spray some at work tomorrow but I am fairly sure the can is clear... I wonder what that is..? :lost:
Mitchell, I can guarantee the aerosol spray is black. see viewtopic.php?f=96&t=7055 :lol:

Glenda

Re: Steri-prune question?

Posted: December 22nd, 2010, 1:25 pm
by kvan64
both spray and brush forms of steriprune are black!

Re: Steri-prune question?

Posted: December 22nd, 2010, 4:07 pm
by Tinmonkey
Thanks for the responses guys. :tu:

In my noobness I realise that my question wasn't really worded properly. :palm:

Will steri-prune inhibit the wound from healing over?

Re: Steri-prune question?

Posted: December 22nd, 2010, 4:16 pm
by rch003
My woulds are about 2-3 years old, still black and haven't healed

Re: Steri-prune question?

Posted: December 22nd, 2010, 6:12 pm
by Pup
I was once told by an Arborist not use it, as by the time you actually put it on the cut, that the pathogens you are trying to stop, as in Sterilise are already into the wood.
So he said to use vasaline it is just as good to stop the wood drying out. I use the wound paste that we all seem to use.

Cheers ;) Pup

Ps I never sprayed it for flys as I have never used, it but I did spray the BBQ with black paint once thinking was Olive Oil :no: :palm: :lost: :roll: :lol: