AusBonsai

Hi,

Got this Azalea a little while back and did cut some of the bigger lower branches and it starting to shoot from the trunk.

Would it be ok to a trunk shot and regrow everything?

Thanks
Michael

G'day mtarros,

Did you mean to say do a trunk chop and regrow?!

I reckon it would (course of I say that and it dies you'll hate me forever ) its full of energy, starting to move and shooting buds from the trunk so you could either find one trunk with movement and taper and cut back to that or even try cutting all the trunks back and go for something really small and powerful.
Its always safest to leave a little green at the end of a trunk or branch if you can. Always seal all cuts well and also safest to leave a 1 or 2cm stub which can be removed 6 or 12mnths later.
If it was me I'd take the chance to reduce and sort out the roots at the same time because this needs to be done anyway and I think it helps because it reduces the bleeding you would get from a full pumping root system and keeps top and bottom more balanced.
Don't leave any flowers on as they take too much energy.

Looks like a very nice tree too! Good luck, have fun and keep us posted!!!

neal.

edit - you could also just go 'natural style' and keep lots of trunks, just enjoy the flowers and then cut it back into a natural multi trunked tree style, endless possibilities

Yea I did mean to say trunk chop lol

I think I might take a risk and do the chop and root work.

I did want to enter it in the comp but as I have cut some of the branches did not post it.


The main reason I got it when I found it was the powerful looking trunk.

The trunk and nebari do look great. You also need to consider if the leaf and flower size will suit a smaller tree. It doesn't look like the leaves are too large. Whats the variety, purple glitters??

I did one with a Rukizon, it has quite small leaves and small flowers (when it does flower which seems to be not too often), here's the thread...

viewtopic.php?f=138&t=6103

Its a pity this one's not in the comp, it looks pretty much like straight from the nursery stock with a few lower growths removed. really nice azalea. If you start working it then please just do a progression with photo's for us to see how it goes anyway

Looks like this one has a nice powerful trunkline in there to utilise as an upright style tree than a clump.

We have many azaleas as clumps ( thta is how they develop naturally, so somethig differrent is nice

Ken

If I could pull out my last tree and enter this one I would feel better.

Not sure if we can do that?

I will be taking this to my bosai classes in spring so will keep everyone up to date with is progress.

mtarros wrote:If I could pull out my last tree and enter this one I would feel better.

Not sure if we can do that?

Why not, just remove one entry and put this one in, the comp hasn't started yet.

(I assume this is ok)

I hope it's ok.

I sent a pm asking if i can do that and if the tree is ok to enter.

With the root work for an azalea this size how much of the roots can you remove?
I'm guessing not too much and just take it down every repot till I can get it into a bonsai pot.

I have not done any root work before.

mtarros wrote:I hope it's ok.

I sent a pm asking if i can do that and if the tree is ok to enter.

With the root work for an azalea this size how much of the roots can you remove?
I'm guessing not too much and just take it down every repot till I can get it into a bonsai pot.

I have not done any root work before.

Actually you would be surprised how much you can take off the roots of a healthy plant at this time of year if you also reduce the top to reduce transpiration. If you can get any of the japanese satsuki magazines you will see they cut them right back to 'twiggy growth'. Put them in the shade for a while afterwards and mist the top. Nowadays I will always completely bare root a nursery plant, washing all old soil off and put it into kanuma. No flowers after the root pruning. Water with seasol or clonex clone solution as it recovers. Good aftercare is important, mist the top regularly and don't let the soil dry out either (but don't need to overwater the soil until new roots have grown), maybe a mulch layer of sphagnum moss.

Good luck

Looks very good for the usual non bonsai grown azalea.

Azalea don't need trunk chops as they are basally domiannt. You want to do the opposite with azalea. You want to focus on actually getting an apex because if you don't you won't have one. You want to prune off the sacrificial branches that get too think. It will back bud hard, as azalea do, and then you grow those new buds into new sacrificial branches, creating the trunk and the taper you want.

So yeah get rid of all the branches that compete with the trunk line. And you actually want to direct strength to the apex rather than away from it.

Most azalea cultivar will bud from old wood even without pruning. So there is never the problem of getting new low branches that help you get taper.

Hi Mtarros, I don't know if you have already done your trunk chop or not, but if it were mine I would wait. This way you allow it to put out its new growth and and spend a little time building up its/more energy via photosynthesis so that when you do chop it at say the start of summer, it will have heaps more stored energy to pop lots more shoots etc. This way when it is chopped it will also be at the height of the growing season so it should power on. Azaleas are commonly pruned after flowering which is later on anyway. If you chop at the start of summer, it leaves plenty of time for it to put on new growth, harden off before cooler weather and also photosynthesize more to build up the roots to make it exra healthy for the winter period by giving it a chance to rebuild the energy it lost via the trunk chop.
I would then do the roots and repot next season.
I am sure you could go ahead now no worries as Neil has advised...this is how I would approach it though. Mind you, I am no expert and have little experience with this species. Having said that, my advice it makes good horticultural sense to me.
Goodluck, and look forward to the progress reports/updates.
Cheers, Dario.

Hi,

I have not done anything to it as it is now in the shohin comp.

I have always gotten the impression that most plants respond to pruning best when you prune just after the plant comes out of dormancy.

That bonsai azalea are usually pruned after flowering has all to do with the flowers. If you prune at a different point you will prune off the flower buds.

Even if you prune really late in summer, azalea will backbud. But a bit of a question is at what point that new growth will no longer have the time to harden off properly. But that's only an issue in colder climates that have serious frost.