Scoparium nanum rubrum advice

[Mickeyjaytee]

Hey all!

Well I’m back once again diving straight into the forbidden fruit of scoparium. I have some nanum rubrum, big red and plain scoparium which, as you all probably know from my last thread, they went straight into normal pots and have been in them for about 9 months or so all plants have had zero work done on them!

The trunks have developed really nicely on the nanum rubrum, naturally being pretty unique with twists and turns. The plain scoparium sadly were left in small pots straight from tube stock and are straight and lanky

I would assume my first step would be to repot. I really want to train and shape but, foliage is important for recovery from what I’ve learnt.

Being such a difficult plant to bonsai, can anyone give me advice on the very first root prune (if at all) and whether I should tackle foliage? Actually scrap that, what would you do with the nanum rubrum? I read that as soon as it’s dry it’s dead. Funnily enough the tag says ‘tolerates periods of dryness’

I know these are very sensitive plants.

Next up the plain scoparium. Should I trim right back and leave the repotting to another time or, go for a repot first? Very leggy as you can see in the picture.

The big reds were staked and are straight as a board, I thought perhaps I’ll try formal/straight trunk style. There are shoots all up the stem so perhaps chop the tops off?

I will also note that they are currently in a growth period so, I may not be able to do anything.

I know this is for more experienced growers but, they’re such amazing beautiful plants and it’s probably the only thing I can do some work on atm. Everything else is just too small or needs more growth!

Any help would just be amazing!

[Mickeyjaytee]

Okey dokey I found this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=82&t=22751



If you read this Rory, curious to know what you’ve learnt and, are the trees still alive? I think I’ve picked a tough one

Thanks!

[Rory]

I have given away / sold most of my Lepto scoparium trials. I kept the best material and have progression threads of them now.

Leptospermum rubrum nana is the most difficult of the Lepto scopariums I ever tried. I’ve attempted quite a few of these dwarf variants over my time growing bonsai, but never had one survive long term. I even trialled just separating the roots and not really removing much root at all, but eventually they’d die. The normal varieties have a greater chance of long term success.

My main advice for success with any Leptospermum scoparium are below, but with the one most important point being:

Try to source young material, and only separate the roots initially. Anything with a trunk of more than 5mm (half a cm) has a 50/50 chance of death after the first attempt. With stock that are very young, you will greatly increase your chances of success. With all my experience of Leptospermum scoparium I would not attempt to bonsai nursery material with thicker trunks, no matter how good the stock looked.

Growing tips:

-For the first ever root work you do, I would actually recommend just easing the roots apart and untangling them. Don't remove much root at this initial stage. You can then simply reduce the rootball over the years that follow.
Leave a lot of foliage on them at all times.
-Don't allow them to get bone dry. (although this subspecies has remarkably better drought tolerance than most people think. The only time I've lost them is from too much root removal, not by being left to dry out.)
-Avoid wiring, clip-and-grow produces wonderful movement.
-They can grow okay in a heavy mix, but for best results I'd recommend a medium drainage mix (one that requires watering within about 48 hours on a partly sunny day), and I just use slow-release osmocote fertilizer.
-Best to avoid any root work when its below about 10 degrees overnight temps.
-They love water and don't seem bothered by having wet feet.
-They grow very well in both shade, semi-shade or full sun. But for me, best results were from semi-shade.
-Do not remove a lot of roots or foliage in one go ; do it slowly in stages, over a 5+ year period
-Do not use a strong spray hose/jet on the roots, as it can damage the outer layer of the root.
-When doing root work (removal), make sure you remove the flowers/buds straight afterwards.
-You can cut back branches hard, but I recommend cutting back half of the branching in one session, then next year cut back the other half. This ensures you have foliage for good health all year round. They usually shoot back really well from all areas right up to the cut.

Good luck with this one. I wish you success.

[Mickeyjaytee]

Thanks Rory, I always appreciate your feedback. Well, that’s a bit of a bugger I guess. They’re such beautiful trees. I guess I could use them for my garden. I have a huge pot for one of the big reds.

I still might give 1 or 2 a go. There’s a local bonsai shop that sells them and the owner says they’re tricky but, manageable I will try your methods however for those I do try. Thanks so much for the detailed reply.

Curious. Are there any good leptos you could recommend? I have a couple of very young nitens although the trunks are super straight. I know laevigatum are great and, I have a few which are only just little seedlings. I do have a few cardwells too and some local erubescens and sericium.

I bought a few hybrids like Mesmer eyes and outrageous but, in doing some research I see they are a cross with scoparium

Thanks mate, you’re a champ!

[Rory]

Leave for the garden? Pfff softy! Give them all a go. Just try as hard as you can to just separate the roots. You can then remove root at the following repot a year or two later.

As far as WA is concerned, your best bet is to source local Leptos from native nurseries in your area and ask them what hardy material grows best.

My personal favourite is Leptospermum brachyandrum. The beautiful pastel colours of the trunk and the weeping foliage, combined with the extreme hardiness of the tree make it the best overall Lepto for Bonsai in my opinion. There are many varieties of Lepto that I trialled that are quite hardy. In fact, apart from Myrtle Rust problems, most Lepto varieties I have experimented with have been fairly rewarding.

I can’t grow L. laevigatum because the Myrtle rust weakens them too much. But they are really lovely material with their gnarly trunks. They were quite hardy from rootwork when I trialled them too.

[Mickeyjaytee]

Leave for the garden? Pfff softy! Give them all a go. Just try as hard as you can to just separate the roots. You can then remove root at the following repot a year or two later.

As far as WA is concerned, your best bet is to source local Leptos from native nurseries in your area and ask them what hardy material grows best.

My personal favourite is Leptospermum brachyandrum. The beautiful pastel colours of the trunk and the weeping foliage, combined with the extreme hardiness of the tree make it the best overall Lepto for Bonsai in my opinion. There are many varieties of Lepto that I trialled that are quite hardy. In fact, apart from Myrtle Rust problems, most Lepto varieties I have experimented with have been fairly rewarding.

I can’t grow L. laevigatum because the Myrtle rust weakens them too much. But they are really lovely material with their gnarly trunks. They were quite hardy from rootwork when I trialled them too.

Oh alright! Twist my bloody arm haha

Love your enthusiasm. I just hate killing plants! I’ll give it a damn good shot though. I’m going to go along to bonsai club on Saturday so I’ll see if any other west aussies have had any luck.

I think I tried Leptospermum brachyandrum but, the seeds didn’t germinate. I find a lot of the great bonsai material from the eastern states isn’t available here. You can buy seeds but, that’s about it. Most I haven’t been able to get to sprout.

The Esperance tea tree (sericeum) and erubescens (which grew like mad everywhere out in the country where I grew up) are really unique and I’ve never seen a bonsai made out of either.

It’s pretty exciting to try new stuff! I keep raiding the local native nursery. With that said a lot of it while they say is ‘native’ is not from WA. The other nursery APACE, is all west Australian which is awesome. They just neglect the plants a bit.. well a lot. I’ll work with what I can!

It’s a real shame about the Myrtle rust. I see why WA has such strict rules and we can’t get plants shipped over. So many species I’d kill for!

Thank Rory, you’re that voice cheering me on when I doubt myself! I appreciate it mate.

[Patmet]

I can't really help you as far as giving any tried and tested advice for Scoparium, but I do have one here in WA and also a Scoparium hybrid. I've had both for roughly 4 years from tubestock and haven't really had any issues health wise apart from aphids which seems to love any of my tea trees. That being said I haven't done any major root work they have both just been in training pots to grow and thicken. Both have had fairly significant cut backs and recovered fine, and a bit of wire here and there so far. So don't give up, you might find they are more resilient than you think - Or not, but may as well do your best and see what happens. I'll start a thread for mine some time soon as I have a crack at some root work.

On a side note I also have an Esperance Tea Tree and they are great specimens. They have a similar look to L. Laevigatum but are local native so a good alternative.

[Mickeyjaytee]

I can't really help you as far as giving any tried and tested advice for Scoparium, but I do have one here in WA and also a Scoparium hybrid. I've had both for roughly 4 years from tubestock and haven't really had any issues health wise apart from aphids which seems to love any of my tea trees. That being said I haven't done any major root work they have both just been in training pots to grow and thicken. Both have had fairly significant cut backs and recovered fine, and a bit of wire here and there so far. So don't give up, you might find they are more resilient than you think - Or not, but may as well do your best and see what happens. I'll start a thread for mine some time soon as I have a crack at some root work.

On a side note I also have an Esperance Tea Tree and they are great specimens. They have a similar look to L. Laevigatum but are local native so a good alternative.

Thanks Pat, I appreciate the feedback! The scoparium seem to grow quite well here. I have one on my verge and it’s survived 40 degree days so I think water wise they aren’t as bad as most people think. It’s most likely the touchy roots that causes so much grief. You’ll have to update us all when you do do some root work!

Good to know about wiring and pruning. I’m loving the natural flow that mine have created so far.

I sure do love me an Esperance tea tree. Mine are still quite small atm so I think some root work and a repot is in order. Quick question, have you done any root work for yours? Curious to see how hardy they are.

I haven’t seen nor heard anything about erubescens. It might just be unknown territory. I have a few small seedlings but, might check out APACE today to see if they have any in stock. They definitely should be drought hardy. We used to play in mass thickets of them as kids and we went through blistering heat and droughts and they were fine. Roots will be the key factor here I think. Really nice flaky bark so if you can get some I recommend trying too!

Thanks again!

[Patmet]

I can't really help you as far as giving any tried and tested advice for Scoparium, but I do have one here in WA and also a Scoparium hybrid. I've had both for roughly 4 years from tubestock and haven't really had any issues health wise apart from aphids which seems to love any of my tea trees. That being said I haven't done any major root work they have both just been in training pots to grow and thicken. Both have had fairly significant cut backs and recovered fine, and a bit of wire here and there so far. So don't give up, you might find they are more resilient than you think - Or not, but may as well do your best and see what happens. I'll start a thread for mine some time soon as I have a crack at some root work.

On a side note I also have an Esperance Tea Tree and they are great specimens. They have a similar look to L. Laevigatum but are local native so a good alternative.

Thanks Pat, I appreciate the feedback! The scoparium seem to grow quite well here. I have one on my verge and it’s survived 40 degree days so I think water wise they aren’t as bad as most people think. It’s most likely the touchy roots that causes so much grief. You’ll have to update us all when you do do some root work!

Good to know about wiring and pruning. I’m loving the natural flow that mine have created so far.

I sure do love me an Esperance tea tree. Mine are still quite small atm so I think some root work and a repot is in order. Quick question, have you done any root work for yours? Curious to see how hardy they are.

I haven’t seen nor heard anything about erubescens. It might just be unknown territory. I have a few small seedlings but, might check out APACE today to see if they have any in stock. They definitely should be drought hardy. We used to play in mass thickets of them as kids and we went through blistering heat and droughts and they were fine. Roots will be the key factor here I think. Really nice flaky bark so if you can get some I recommend trying too!

Thanks again!

In pot culture I've found Scoparium to be quite thirsty. I have worked the roots on my esperance tea tree. I haven't got it into a bonsai pot yet but has responded fine to moderate root prune. I repotted and worked the roots on it in May last year. See the photo below for before the work, (I forgot to take one after).

20220506_132436.jpg

[Mickeyjaytee]

Thanks for the reply and info Pat! My fear was it was going to be like the scoparium

I chased some info on erubescens at APACE and it seems like they are very slow growers. I always remember them being quite fast but, that would possibly be growing in its natural habitat as opposed to not. Perhaps I just don’t remember.

I shall do some work on my sericeums today! Thank you so much for the info!

[GavinG]

I don't know whether this applies to scoparium, but if I'm concerned about a Lepto repot, I put them in a water bath until I see new growth. I had a "Mesmer Eyes" that had been totally bare-rooted, which I believe is a no-no for Leptos, survive with the water bath treatment. It's worth a test if you're worried.

Gavin

[Mickeyjaytee]

I don't know whether this applies to scoparium, but if I'm concerned about a Lepto repot, I put them in a water bath until I see new growth. I had a "Mesmer Eyes" that had been totally bare-rooted, which I believe is a no-no for Leptos, survive with the water bath treatment. It's worth a test if you're worried.

Gavin

Thanks mate, good advice! I’ll definitely give that a go when I try. Luckily I haven’t started yet!

Thank you