When to Air Layer?

[BGM1971]

Hi all
When is the best time to Air Layer?
I want to Air Layer this Corky Bark Elm.

Corky.JPG

As I have never done Air Layering, any advice would be greatly appreciate.
Thanks
Brad

[Petra]

hi Brad,
Airlayering can be done almost any time of the year in some places, not sure about other parts of the country. Some say Melbourne cup day and then take off on Australia day. I however, wait to see new growth then do my layering and in 8 or so weeks i take it off the tree. Some say take it off after 6 weeks, but i always let it go for longer just to be sure i get enough roots. Wait & let see what others have to say. Cheers!

[kcpoole]

I use the same times as collecting trees to put on ( or take off) Airlayers.
I use the Wiki When do i as my guide
https://www.ausbonsai.com.au/wiki/index. ... hould_I%3F

The the wiki has a great article on how to do it too
https://www.ausbonsai.com.au/wiki/index. ... =Air_layer

Ken

[cre8ivbonsai]

Hi Brad, I tried my first air-layer on a Trident Maple this time last year, I did the M Cup day to Aust day and upon reflection I think the time was too short (the layer died off over winter from lack of roots ).

All species are different though, Elms are usually vigorous growers, however from my limited understanding Corkys are a bit slower.

Myself I'm going to have another crack at air-layering this weekend too (been waiting for spare time and for the weather to stabilize, but I think the minimum temps are now high enough and enough sap flowing freely to begin). I'll be applying multiple layers to a Chinese Elm this time.

A couple of thing I'll be doing different (and hopefully these will lead to success ) are:
- wrapping the first layer clear plastic in an outer layer black plastic to keep to new roots in the dark, I'm even considering little plastic pots or even these for the smaller branches https://www.gardenexpress.com.au/rooter-pot/ (from this tread viewtopic.php?f=9&t=7550&start=15).
- getting fresher spagnhem moss, and chopping it up a bit
- adding a small percentage of seed raising mix (does anyone recommend adding diatomite at all?)
- leaving for a longer period of time

Good luck Brad , and if any more experienced members need/can correct me PLEASE DO I'm still learning too!

Cheers,
Ryan

[63pmp]

You can do it whenever new gowth has matured enough to draw water up the xylem.

Since you remove the phloem with the bark and cambium, you are relying on the xylem to provide moisture and nutrients. Movement up the xylem can come from vascular pressure in the root cels, but mostly by evapotranspiration in summer. Also, the leaves have to manufacture carbohydrates to develop hormones,tissue and food at the layer site.

When to take them off is another issue. I have had some success with leaving maple layers on until July, and then repot as usual for maples. But do it when you think the roots can support the upper foliage, later is better than earlier.

I wrap mine in alfoil to provide darkness and to keep them cool. Some people suggest putting them in the shade, others in the sun Some people suggest not feeding nitrogen. Lots of different ideas out there, reality is each species has its own quirks that you have to learn. I've had successful layers of elms with a plastic pot filled with regular potting mix, and another do well with sphagnum moss. Just keep the layer dark, moist and cool.

Paul

[BGM1971]

Hi
Thanks for all of you help.
I'll try and have a go at it this weekend.
I was thinking of air layering around this height.

Corky2.JPG

What do you think
Higher?
Maybe lower?

Brad

[MattA]

What do you think
Higher?
Maybe lower?

Brad

Hey Brad,

The answer to that all lies in what your 2 new trees will eventually look like once seperated. Do you want short & stocky or keep most of the height in the top or bottom?

Personally I would look at maybe 3 layers in 2 stages to make the most of that lovely aged bark but lose that long straight trunk.

Corkylayers.jpg

A small layer on the upright branch on the left to make a shohin broom. Small blue line in canopy.
The second along the crease in the bark following the same angle to give a bit of movement. larger blue line.
As both layers have their own shoots you could set them both at the same time.
To do the third layer (yellow line) you would have to wait until some growth has formed after the other 2 have been removed.

Matt

[kcpoole]

I vote for Matt's suggestion, To nice not use all you can
I would put them on now and should be able to remove by Christmas if not before

Ken

[cre8ivbonsai]

Hey Brad, did you get the air layer on yesterday? I was leaving til today, bad decision given the weather maybe tomorrow then

[Meagi]

Hi All

i'm very interested in air layering to obtain more material ( like i need more trees!!).Can some of the more experinced bonsai people post or give tips on the step by step to airlayer trees sucessfully .I was showen once on what ingredents to use i tried but was unsecussful . The tree i was showed on is still living today .Not sure if i left an ingrdent out or did not wait long enough .

also does time of year have anything to do with it .

maybe there is a post on here already but not able to find it

i was looking for an start to finish guide .
cheers and thanks for helping

[kcpoole]

Check the Wiki as there is plenty of links to great howto layer threads in there.
https://www.ausbonsai.com.au/wiki/index.php?title=Layer

Ken

[Meagi]

Thanks ken was hoping to get a few secret tips as well .

[Mojo Moyogi]

Good morning Meagi and Brad,

3 of the most common reasons that air-layers fail are:

1) The ring barking is not deep/wide enough and/or there is cambium left inside the cut and the tree bridges the gap before producing roots. Quite common in trees with vigorous callous growth such as Elms.
2) The layering medium is too moist or dry. Wring out sphagnum till it is evenly damp and try to maintain. Many people use open air-layers using an pot rather than plastic wrapped sphagnum to avoid over wetting, but must water the layer often. Open air-layers seem to be the preferred method for difficult to root species, notably Japanese Black Pine.
3) Removing the layer too early. It's great that some growers can start a layer in November and detach a new tree in January. Start the layer when the season is right for the species, detach the tree when you have plenty of roots to sustain the tree. If that means starting in November and detaching in August the following year, then that is the price of free bonsai material and is well worth the patience.


I think RayM has written a couple of books on the subject that are worth owning.

Cheers,
Mojo

[Meagi]

thanks Mojo Ray has contacted me .