Rintar wrote: so a few months on?? imthinking of doing this type of thing to cuttings in october so am wondering how it all went.....
Hi Rintar,
I haven't uncovered the roots and won't do so until October when the weather warms up. All trees that I have done this too are growing nicely including the one that I treated as a large cutting.
The bad news is that my wife discovered her missing Tupperware but suspects that one of the 4 kids were responsible
thanks steven and paddles
and steve she is right it is very expensive im thinking $2 shop ripeoffs are more my budget if i ant find anything in the op shops
When doing this method do you want to make sure to leave a small gap under the cutting? In other words, do you tightly screw the cutting to the wood, or leave some room underneath to ensure the roots have somewhere to go when they sprout out? I'm just afraid if I screw it tightly against the wood that the roots couldn't escape from the bottom of the cutting....
The Ficus Guy wrote:When doing this method do you want to make sure to leave a small gap under the cutting? In other words, do you tightly screw the cutting to the wood, or leave some room underneath to ensure the roots have somewhere to go when they sprout out? I'm just afraid if I screw it tightly against the wood that the roots couldn't escape from the bottom of the cutting....
I have never tried this, but what I do with my olives is cut the cambium at 45 degrees. That way, no matter how tightly you screw the wood against the base, there is still exposed cambium to allow growth. Worth a try right!
The Ficus Guy wrote:When doing this method do you want to make sure to leave a small gap under the cutting? In other words, do you tightly screw the cutting to the wood, or leave some room underneath to ensure the roots have somewhere to go when they sprout out? I'm just afraid if I screw it tightly against the wood that the roots couldn't escape from the bottom of the cutting....
I have never tried this, but what I do with my olives is cut the cambium at 45 degrees. That way, no matter how tightly you screw the wood against the base, there is still exposed cambium to allow growth. Worth a try right!
I do this with all of my trees, at time of repot, after a season or two of healthy root growth, I select the main roots I want, remove the ones I don't, (flat cut tap roots or downward growing roots if necessary and paint with rooting hormone) and then plant on anything flat.
I have used upturned saucers and bread and butter plates, lids off ice cream containers, pavers, bits of Perspex, pieces of timber, anything flat.
I usually just plant straight on and wire into the pot as normal.
Where I want roots to develop from the flat cut site, or from areas on the base of the trunk where I want to develop nebari, I will either paint with hormone gel, or place spagnum moss, or both,
I have found using spagnum moss around the roots of (violently) collected trees gets me great root development when I have either bare roots or ripped the trees out and not left a lot of root to play with.
My trees are planted on CD's/DVD's. All my old 4wding and fishing dvd's that have been watched 5000 times are now fattening my trees. They are cheap, strong and work well. If a tree grows a tap root through the centre it helps the tree grow, but easy to cut it off as there will be plenty of roots around the outside.
so a few months on?? imthinking of doing this type of thing to cuttings in october so am wondering how it all went.....
