My new Chinese elm

Beano · Post by **Beano** » April 16th, 2013, 3:26 pm

I got this great tree at the Bimer show a couple of weeks ago. I've since hacked at it a bit and now it looks a bit bare, hoping it will fill out over time. I'm not exactly sure what to do with those middle branches yet so I'll just let them go for now.

GavinG · Post by **GavinG** » April 16th, 2013, 4:56 pm

Nice score. Just a thought - would you consider rolling it over to the right, so the trunk goes outwards and downwards? Might be a nice dynamic. You'd keep all the branches, and prune them more penjing style - complex angles, not solid pads. the trunk certainly moves well.

Gavin

Brian · Post by **Brian** » April 16th, 2013, 5:16 pm

when you repot and root prune it, save the roots as they make superb cuttings.

Ray M · Post by **Ray M** » April 16th, 2013, 5:18 pm

Hi Beano,
You may think my idea too radical. The main reason for suggesting this is that I think the trunk is to parallel after the second branch.

If you air layered where the red lines are indicated you would be able to get 5 trees.

Chinese Elm -3.jpg

Regards Ray

Beano · Post by **Beano** » April 16th, 2013, 5:26 pm

Hard decision - I was thinking I roll a bit to the right when its time to pot. But I agree the trunk is a little straight after the 2nd branch. We'll see.

GavinG · Post by **GavinG** » April 16th, 2013, 5:29 pm

That's the point of rolling it way over - if the tree is reaching out sideways, you can get away with the relatively straight trunk. At least for my money. Search "Hong Lin" for a very good, complicated penjing with that kind of movement.

Gavin

Post by **kcpoole** » April 16th, 2013, 5:44 pm

I would keep the lower trun intact and look at shortening to Rays second line and regrow the top from there

Ken

Post by **Bougy Fan** » April 16th, 2013, 5:48 pm

I would air layer it just above the first red line and start agin with some movement in the trunk. The when the air layer is separated you can layer it some more if you so desire. To my eye the first 2 sections of the trunk are great but then it has that funny kink and the straight section.

Olivecrazy · Post by **Olivecrazy** » April 16th, 2013, 7:17 pm

ive got a idea guys been thinking of doing a tree like in the link an it maybe possible to do the same to this tree

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6050/6369 ... a03b_z.jpg

Be using a Chinese elm this spring to start my own its a rare style this is the only one i have found on the internet its a maple

Olivecrazy · Post by **Olivecrazy** » April 16th, 2013, 7:25 pm

Some thing like this

Beano · Post by **Beano** » April 16th, 2013, 8:04 pm

So many options. I'm too chicken for many of them! I was thinking of air layering, but only to get two trees, not 5. At least it has options! I stared at it for about 20 min at the show before I bought it.

Post by **Bougy Fan** » April 16th, 2013, 8:09 pm

You probably should just chop it - air layering the top makes more trees but will slow down the development. I would air layer it because I can't help myself - "free tree"

Nathan · Post by **Nathan** » April 16th, 2013, 9:52 pm

Nice tree

Heavy wire it and bend in to the left from above the second branch this will create very good movement, and you can then work from there, also look a changing the potting angle, tilt the pot to the right.

Cheers

Beano · Post by **Beano** » April 17th, 2013, 10:22 am

I'm not sure wire would be enough to bend that trunk, it would probably snap. Should I wire it, then to a incomplete chop through the trunk to bend it over? like in this thread? https://www.ausbonsai.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=12702

Olivecrazy · Post by **Olivecrazy** » April 17th, 2013, 12:58 pm

A big thing with bonsai is being able to see the tree you are after in the stock you have

this will come with time for me i just work with the tree not against it

AusBonsai