Liquidambar styraciflua gumball

Beano · Post by **Beano** » April 16th, 2013, 3:17 pm

Picked up this small tree today. I'm told that the gumballs are grafted trees. I'm not sure what the means for bonsai though, but I liked it so I got it anyway. I figure I can turn it into something.

If it's grafted, does that mean I can't trunk chop? If that's that case, could I still thread graft lower on the trunk?

Beano · Post by **Beano** » April 16th, 2013, 3:19 pm

not sure whey the photos loaded sideways, they were upright on my computer...

Post by **Bougy Fan** » April 16th, 2013, 3:45 pm

There should be a visible graft towards the bottom of the trunk. They put the top part {Gumball) onto stronger rootstock which can be better growing or more resistant to disease. If you chop below the graft you will not have the Gumball characteristics. I had one of these with a nice graft but it died on me

Usually grafted trees are not the best for bonsai because the graft is not usually neat and stands out.

Beano · Post by **Beano** » April 16th, 2013, 4:11 pm

Can't see one on the trunk. I thought where the two branches at the top are looked different and there seems to be a line where both branches emerge - could that be a graft?

Isitangus · Post by **Isitangus** » April 16th, 2013, 4:50 pm

A graft is not usually that high up, it does occur but primarily in fruit trees.

Post by **Bougy Fan** » April 16th, 2013, 5:40 pm

Yes that has to be it. The bark looks a little different to me. So don't cut below that

Ray M · Post by **Ray M** » April 16th, 2013, 5:45 pm

Hi Beano,
You can ground layer the tree and create a new root system at the height you desire.

Regards Ray

Beano · Post by **Beano** » April 24th, 2013, 11:43 am

Ok, so I couldn't help myself. I saw an option for this tree where it would appear to have a trunk that continues up to the apex which involved planting it on an angle. My original plan was just to remove the original pot and stick it in a styro box on an angle and not disturb the roots. Being geometrically challenged, it of course didn't quite fit and was pot bound so I did rake some dirt out of the outer root ball. No roots were pruned.

I now have some leaves changing colour. I'm not sure if this is the autumn colour thing or if these leaves are dying. Some other leaves are still healthy and green looking and some are odd and shrivelled but not dry, like they didn't develop properly. Is this normal, or have I killed it?

thoglette · Post by **thoglette** » April 24th, 2013, 12:36 pm

Beano wrote:II now have some leaves changing colour. I'm not sure if this is the autumn colour thing or if these leaves are dying. Some other leaves are still healthy and green looking and some are odd and shrivelled but not dry, like they didn't develop properly. Is this normal, or have I killed it?

It's pretty normal. I (ahem

) let one L. S. dry out a few weeks back - all leaves shrivelled and since cut off. Lots of buds below but It'll now sulk until spring

Post by **Bougy Fan** » April 24th, 2013, 1:26 pm

I have seen some street trees that are getting some autumn colour so you may be OK. You really should have left it until winter but

Beano · Post by **Beano** » May 1st, 2013, 10:36 am

Still alive! No further leaf colour change. I did find a possum poo and some superficial roots exposed yesterday... It's probably getting revenge because I kicked it out of its watering can hideaway on my balcony after the cat got fleas last year. Really tempted to hack back the big Lilly pilly it jumps from.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Beano · Post by **Beano** » September 6th, 2013, 2:00 pm

This has become my experimental hack tree and it as surprised me with its toughness so far. It's just sprouted nice new leaves for spring.

Hackimoto · Post by **Hackimoto** » September 6th, 2013, 6:39 pm

You are correct, Gumball has to be grafted unless cuttings or layers are successful, which would be rare with liquidambars. I graft Gumball on to Liquidambar styraciflua seedlings, it is the most reliable way to propagate them. Yours is grafted. If you look at some of your first pics you will notice that some black substance is present on the trunk at the top. This is the remains of the grafting wax or tar substance that they use in the process. The actual graft is between the two black areas and is a very good, reasonably unnoticeable graft. The texture of the two different barks might be more noticeable in time. They are an excellent choice for bonsai as you get the beauty of a liquidambar but not the vigorous upright growth. What you have done looks like it will be a nice little tree. Just don't over do the rough treatment while it is in full growth.

They arr also one of the few deciduous tree species that colour well in autumn in your area.

Beano · Post by **Beano** » September 7th, 2013, 9:52 am

Yeah I'll need to pretty much leave it be this season, I repotted it twice this year, first time in early autumn then it sulked. Then I decided I didn't want it planted on the angle anymore, so when dormant redid it into a basket pot and back into the styro box. I now need a bud near the top trunk pointing right as I want to train a new apex to get better taper. Then at some stage I'll need to graft a branch down near the new bend as its on the rootstock.

Here's my plan/delusion:

Luke308 · Post by **Luke308** » September 7th, 2013, 1:01 pm

I personally would take that bending vice/clamp off the trunk ASAP as they are known to "dent" he trunk.

With a decidious tree like this you have quite soft bark which will mark quite easily.

I used one of these clamps when I first stared bonsai on both a liquid amber and a Japanese Maple. Both ended up with huge dents where all three "claws" made contact which was worse than some wire scars I have seen as it is so wide.

These may be more useful on something less delicate perhaps?

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