Japanese maple air layer question

Discussions about propagating from cuttings, seeds, air layers etc. Going on a dig (Yamadori) or thinking of importing? Discuss how, when and where here.
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joelham
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Japanese maple air layer question

Post by joelham »

Hi guys,
Just found myself a page Japanese maple I can take some air layers off. Just wondering when is the best time of year to attempt air layers? Also what thickness shoul I go for. Any advice or experiences would be greatly appreciated
Many thanks!
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Re: Japanese maple air layer question

Post by Lynette »

Just before spring. That's today here, winter was last week.
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joelham
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Re: Japanese maple air layer question

Post by joelham »

Thanks Lynette, have had mixed opinions via searching the web. Have you had much success. Also how long until they took root and when did you remove them. Thanks!
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SteveW
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Re: Japanese maple air layer question

Post by SteveW »

Don't be in a rush to take it off the tree. Although maples root quickly and you could remove it after a few months, I'd leave it on for a year (using a pot rather than bag growing method).

I did one that as 40mm across. My guess is bigger is possible, just be patient. The more roots the better your chance of it surviving after the big amputation.

Spaghnum in a plastic bag (eg resealable one) works fine. Being able to open the bag to wet the moss is a good thing.

My more recent air layers are done using a pot around the tree with a spray in it to keep it moist (eg 150mm or 240 mm orchid pot). Works better because it give the roots a lot more room to develop.
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Re: Japanese maple air layer question

Post by shibui »

If all goes well you should be able to remove a spring maple layer after 2-3 months. I avoid budburst in spring because I killed a few at that satge. Before budburst (ie now) and after the new leaves harden a bit both work well.
You can layer as small as about 1 cm thick probably up to any size you can wrap the medium around and keep it moist.
If you are layering for bonsai look for branches that have movement and taper and have relatively short internodes because those cannot be put into older wood. Lots of branches on maples are straight and uniform thickness so the results are disappointing as bonsai.
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