New (first) trident, advice wanted

[kez]

Hi all,

I made a trip up to bonsai south yesterday and came away with a nice trident, which I then proceeded to give a big haircut.

My hope is to build some foliage pads on the remaining branches and build the apex. I have given it a feed with some power feed and some slow release and will leave it for a year to grow freely.

Here are some pics, please feel free to provide direction, advice or critique as I am new to this kind of work

This is the proposed front



And view from the left



My first question is...... Have I don't the right thing? The tree was very vigorous before the trim and in great health

Secondly, I have left some branch stubs to account for die back, is the necessary or can I trim right to the base?

Thirdly, where do I go from hear regarding branch taper?

And finally, I may have slightly snapped what is now the apex during wiring, kind of between a crack and a full break. I have sealed with wound sealer, is it likely to survive or will I lose the branch?

I would also love to hear thoughts on the shape as it stands

Cheers,

Kerrin

[klaery]

Hi Kez,
Good looking stock. If it was me I would have left the branches as it can help build the taper that most of us look for. In saying that though, cutting back now will leave you with only small scars and you will have plenty of new buds grow from the trunk soon anyway that can help do the job for you. Were you after a thicker, heavier looking tree or were you happy to develop it from where the trunk is at now?

Usually major cuts back of deciduous trees are done in the winter when the trees are dormant but yours should be fine. Also I will add that I haven't had any problems cutting back to the trunk straight away (without leaving stubs). It could be said that its safer to leave a stub not for die back, but to make sure you leave some viable buds near the branch base.

Edit: I added above about the buds as KC was posting. Im too slow!

[kcpoole]

Bit hard to see as the photos are 90deg out of whack! Can you rotate then as I cannot as they are offsite

The top section i believe is too long a with no taper, but you can fix that by allowing it to grow unhindered for this year then chop again next spring and regrow the apex again. that is how taper is built up.
I would probably cut back to the first branch stub below you apex foliage next year.

Re the branches leaving stubs, this was discussed a few weeks ago and Alpine summed it up well by saying, that is you cut back to the trunk to keep smooth, you will also take off the buds there as well. Better to leave the stump which will then get the buds to shoot. you can take the stump off after.

Ken

[kez]

Thanks for the input folks,
Glad to see what I've done so far won't kill it.
I am looking for a taller graceful tree so happy at the moment with trunk thickness. I will wait until it puts on some growth before cleaning up the stumps, glad to see leaving them will aid in budding.

Re. The apex, it is all quite thin up there at the moment but there is some taper, as you mentioned though Ken I can re-asses next growth season.

Any advice moving forward from hear?

The photos are viewing correctly on my CPU so not sure which way to rotate to fix. I will try upload new pics maybe.

Cheers,

Kerrin

[kez]

Ok,

Photos round 2

Front


Side


Close up of apex


Let me know if they are upright

Kerrin

[Ray M]

Hi Kerrin,
The following is merely my suggestions.

1/ Take the wire off. You most probably will cut off that section.
2/ The tree has very little taper all the way up to the knob. (Arrow)
3/ If you want a larger trunk, let it grow for a year. Cut off at the, (red line), and wait till you see new shoots.
4/ Choose a shoot and wire it up straight. Let it grow again.
5/ Repeat this process until you are happy with the diameter of the trunk.

Trident-2.jpg

cut.jpg

Regards Ray

[kez]

Thanks again for the advice folks

I've just been out to check the tree and some of the wounds are wet to touch, as is the surrounding bark, should they have been sealed? And if so should I seal them now? I have a product called balchan steri-prune paint, is this suitable?


Cheers,

Kerrin

[nehaali]

Yea I like it. It is good to see some quines done in Aus, well done.

[kez]

Just went and checked the tree, still seems to be bleeding. Any advice?

Thanks:)
Kez

[kcpoole]

I seal all my cuts when they are bigger that about 5 mm

I use the japanese paste in the tube, but you can use anything handy. I have never had a tree bleed much myself, so cannot ther.

Ken

[kez]

Thought id update this one as I'm happy I haven't killed it!

Have been feeding every second week and in the last week it has exploded! I had to trim the top lot if leaves as they were burnt in the heat but I have buds extending up there so looking forward to more options to move forward with

image.jpg

Should be able to get some wire on and some shape into it before it shuts down for winter

Kez