Interestingly I had taken this out to Ray and Clinton the other day and neither of them suggested the chop although neither of them could agree on a front for the tree. Clinton liked this front and Ray liked the 180 degree version . In respect to the chop one theory was that the already heavy branch union on that right side might actually thicken too much and magnify the taper problem due to the new shoots. That has merit. More for me to think about hey.
The other thing we discussed was a pot and weather it should go in one next summer. I am thinking maybe another season in the large pot and then something round and shallow with some claw like feet. Ray handed me a PK pot which looked great. I was pretty happy with the choice too but havent made the final descision yet. He told me if I was after a PK pot I should not wait to make the call too long as Pat is thinking of easing up on the pot production to get into some other arts? So PK pots maybe become rare as rocking horse Sh@t over the next few years.
Lat time saw Pat at Castle Hill, he said that he was planning to give it away soon, so totally agree.
Stock up soon and help out our other local artists in the expectation tht they pick up start producing more quality pots as well
Looking good. The new shoots would only be a problem if you let them grow, if rubbed out as soon as the appear they shouldn't cause too much thickening.
Achieving ramification/small leaves on integrifolia is much like most broad leaved trees. Feed, defoliate, pinch and remove large leaves. You should be able to get very small foliage relatively quickly.
Craigw
I know nothing about banksia, so I haven't chimed in yet. But I do want to say that I admire the patience and thought you are putting into this tree. I keep seeing this tree pop up and wondering if you have hacked it yet, and it's teaching me a great lesson about being patient and making sure to pick the best design. Sometimes I end up right in the middle of a project without thinking too hard about what I'm actually doing.
That aside, I really like this tree. Very cool. Yet another Aus native I'll have to check out . . .
Last edited by lackhand on March 15th, 2013, 11:39 am, edited 1 time in total.
Hi Squizzy,
If I may, there are a couple of things I have noticed with this tree that could be cause for concern in the future and you should look to correcting if this tree is to fulfill it's potential.
Squizzy's banksia.jpg
The second branch that projects upwards and towards the rear of the tree is too heavy in relation to the trunks at it's point of attachment and in my view interrupts the sinuous flow of the trunk. I know it has been suggested to carve it down to lighten some of it's bulk, also that you have chipped away at it a little, but it's awkwardness is still there on an otherwise dynamic tree. If you were to wait until the tree is growing strongly in late spring or early summer and remove the branch, leaving a short stub, you hould be rewarded with a few new buds at the base of the stub that you can use to build a more complimentary back branch and still be able to fill the space occupied by the current branch.
Higher up the tree, at the location of the first right branch, you also have a rear branch at what appears to be the same height. The problem here is that these opposite or near opposite branches are going to rob you of what is a trunk's biggest visual asset - Taper. This has already started to occur to a small degree, however this problem can be halted. From reading your thoughts throughout this thread, you clearly desire to preserve the taper and movement of this tree. Naturally the first right branch is going to be the one to keep and while the rear branch in question does perform the function of filling space between the primary branches and beginning of the apex, I would be inclined to remove it.
If you can take a picture of the tree in front of a plain background, I'd be more than happy to put together a virt in Photoshop and explore the tree a bit further.
Cheers,
Mojo
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Last edited by Mojo Moyogi on March 16th, 2013, 8:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
...Might as well face it, I'm addicted to Shohin...
"Any creative work can be roughly broken down into three components- design, technique and materials. Good design can carry poor technique and materials but no amount of expertise and beautiful materials can save poor design". Andrew McPherson - Furniture designer and artist
Thanks for being yet another experienced ausbonsai member showing interest in this tree.
There is no doubt I procrastinate about the design of this tree a lot and all of the different views on what this tree needs help me with that . It may be time to start making some decisions hey. I will see if I can get a new photo with a plain backdrop soon.
I think the reality is that if you look at the tree when I first started it ( about three years ago) and you look at it now it reflects what I have learnt thus far but it also shows that I need to start looking at advancing my skills to the next level. Like I have said in another thread. What I thought was sh#t hot 3 years ago is rubbish today and what I think is sh#t hot today will be seen as rubbish in three years time and so on. It is certainly a true reflection of where my skills are at now though.
You can carve the branch down heaps more Squizzy. I would start by taking about half away. Suggested this before but you seemed a little hesitant
You can even try a little trick they do with the junipers. Remove alot of the harder wood until only pliable wood is left and it could be brought down a little wrapped with wire. I don't mind the upward motion to a degree though. As long as the rest of the branch has the sweeping down motion I think it fits in well. Just make sure that branch is growing strong when you do this work, best to leave it extend some.
Last edited by Bretts on March 18th, 2013, 1:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
It's too bad your in such a hurry cause the stories I could tell you, Bushels and baskets of stories, hole crates full of stories. But if you can spare a moment I will tell you one story.
Some nice spring growth on this tree this year but no time at the moment to work on it other then a light trim. wouldnt mind potting it into a PK pot I have chosen for it but everytime it gets hot it gets cold a day later at the moment.
Hi all. Had a quick opportunity to repot this one today in a ok pot I've had sat aside for a while. It's round which I think suits the style of the tree. I will let it settle for a while and then look to re wire it once it kicks on.
The top looks a bit too dominant, vigour wise, just from the point of view of health for the lower branches. I would trim back lightly the top and then keep everything else under control by pinching the new growth as it emerges back to 2 or 3 nodes,to equally distribute the vigour over the entire tree.
The new leaves become smaller and juvenile as time goes by as well.
Good job so far and soon you can de clutter the tree a bit as well once it is established in its new pot.
Thanks for the reply.
With your theory should I be trimming the top lighter and the bottom heavier so that the heavier pruning promotes heavier reshooting? Or the other way around?
Should I also just leave it for now until it gains strength again or trim straight away?
Allow the bottom branches to gain vigour by trimming lighter than the top.
The top you can keep recutting harder as necessary until the lower branches are where you want them at. You can aLways lightly pinch to cause growth elsewhere and then cut back harder later.
Trim vertical growth harder than horizontal but do not remove entirely. You will trim vertical growth 2 or 3 times more than horizontal growth.
. In respect to the chop one theory was that the already heavy branch union on that right side might actually thicken too much and magnify the taper problem due to the new shoots. That has merit. More for me to think about hey.
. It may be time to start making some decisions hey. I will see if I can get a new photo with a plain backdrop soon.
December 1st 2013
