Before or During budding...?

[fredman]

Hi all. Bud movement is upon us. Seems to me there are two schools of thought about the best time to work deciduous trees....(meaning heavy work like root trimmings and general branch removal) before bud burst or during?
Can I ask when you prefer doing it and why?
Thanks

[Rory]

I am not an expert in horticulture, so it is probably better addressed by others on here, but on the very few deciduous trees I have now, and the many I have owned in the past, I always root pruned and re-potted when the buds were swelling. I never had problems as a result of doing it that way, and thus I didn't ever trial it after the buds had opened - because I was not wanting to reinvent the wheel but rather, just keep my trees alive.

I was simply following the text books and not wanting to rock the boat, and considering this method worked, I stuck with it.

[kcpoole]

Sorta Like rory said works for me too.

I am happy to do so out of season if I have to, but sticking to that schedule spaces out the trees to do.
I do them in order of Budding, Elms first, Tridents, Japanese maples, Crepe Myrtle. Then move onto to the flowering, then tropicals, then natives.

Lets me keep a regular work schedule happening on my trees.

Ken

[fredman]

Yeah I'm the same. I always have been working them when the buds swell. Always seen that as the safest option....Just wondering horticulturally speaking what the best is by the tree.
Before buds swell (total dormancy) or during swelling?

[treeman]

The best time is when the buds are still hard for the simple reason that you are less likely to knock them off. Other than that reason it makes little difference

[Matt S]

I prefer to work my deciduous trees just before the buds swell for a couple of reasons:

- it's easier to get the time right. I might not be ready to repot at the exact moment the buds swell (work and family commitments often get in the way, dammit).
- As mentioned by Treeman, there's less chance of knocking off the buds. Deciduous trees can take a beating when dormant so I often treat them rough when repotting.
- Usually the roots start moving before the buds when the tree is coming out of dormancy, so the roots have a bit more time to recover.

There's a big caveat here - the winters here in Adelaide are very mild and there's little chance of frost in my backyard. The timing is more critical in places with colder temperatures so if frosts are a regular feature where you live then leave it as long as you can.

Matt.

[shibui]

The timing is more critical in places with colder temperatures so if frosts are a regular feature where you live then leave it as long as you can.

I can't agree with this statement Matt. I live in an area where winters are about as severe as they get in Aust. Down to -7C occasionally and below 0C most nights in winter. I do my repotting all through winter. Staring when the leaves fall and continuing right through to buds opening. I have not noticed any adverse reaction to trees being repotted early in a cold winter.

So, My preference is obviously to root prune before bud swell.

[Matt S]

I'll stand corrected shibui. Many years ago I was told by someone who lived in a frosty area to be careful of repotting if a frost was expected, and I've always taken it as gospel. However your experience trumps my anecdote

[squizzy]

for me there is no such luxury. I pot when I get a chance. Its deciduous when its cold and evergreens when its hot. If I can get through them all I am happy. If they survive i am even happier

squizz