Japanese Maple choices - Beginer
- dansai
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Re: Japanese Maple choices - Beginer
This is where I see the tree.
Like Treeman said, cut the rest off and grow again. Not an instant tree but a better one for it.
If you find that to severe you could do the following,
but in 5 years time when you have learnt more and the quality of you trees has gotten better you will probably cut it back to a trunk and start again anyway, so you may as well do it now.
Good Luck
Like Treeman said, cut the rest off and grow again. Not an instant tree but a better one for it.
If you find that to severe you could do the following,
but in 5 years time when you have learnt more and the quality of you trees has gotten better you will probably cut it back to a trunk and start again anyway, so you may as well do it now.
Good Luck
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Re: Japanese Maple choices - Beginer
dansai wrote:This is where I see the tree.

I really like that. Get the chainsaw out Homer.
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Re: Japanese Maple choices - Beginer
Thanks for the suggestions guys. Very drastic!! But looks like thats what it needs. So i would be vering away from the broom style???? And going with an informal upright?dansai wrote:This is where I see the tree.
Like Treeman said, cut the rest off and grow again. Not an instant tree but a better one for it.
If you find that to severe you could do the following,
but in 5 years time when you have learnt more and the quality of you trees has gotten better you will probably cut it back to a trunk and start again anyway, so you may as well do it now.
Good Luck
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Re: Japanese Maple choices - Beginer


I just hope it isn't too much of a shock for the tree

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Re: Japanese Maple choices - Beginer
Well done and you're almost there Homer. Now all you need to do is cut the leader down to below the first big wound from the top. I think I can see a node about 30mm up from the big wound (on the bend) If that's right, cut just above that.
Last edited by treeman on July 21st, 2015, 5:20 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Mike
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Re: Japanese Maple choices - Beginer
Really? I thought it had a nice taper up top now.treeman wrote:Well done and you're almost there Homer. Now all you need to do is cut the leader down to below the first big wound from the top. I think I can see a node about 30mm up from the big wound (on the bend) If that's right, cut just above that.
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Re: Japanese Maple choices - Beginer
Tell me about it!! Im a little scaredJarad wrote:What a chop mate!
![]()
I just hope it isn't too much of a shock for the tree(I have no experience with a chop this big).

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Re: Japanese Maple choices - Beginer
Nope not enough taper in that section.Homer911 wrote:Really? I thought it had a nice taper up top now.treeman wrote:Well done and you're almost there Homer. Now all you need to do is cut the leader down to below the first big wound from the top. I think I can see a node about 30mm up from the big wound (on the bend) If that's right, cut just above that.
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Cut as Treeman says and Repot to sort the roots and wire a new leader if the new shoots lignify in spring

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Re: Japanese Maple choices - Beginer
After the mass cutting last month i repoted this week. I wanted to carry out the tourniquet method to increase the nebari. Should I leave it alone this year? Im thinking its been through enough it might stress it out too much.
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Last edited by Homer911 on August 23rd, 2015, 4:25 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Japanese Maple choices - Beginer
NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't tourniquet.
In the next few years (no rush) you can start thread grafting a few seedlings everytime you repot to improve the nebari.
Something like this:
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=18223&hilit=refinin ... nese+maple
All you need to do is plan for it by acquiring the seedlings. What you need to do now is wait for it to shoot. Pick the best placed branches (buds) and remove all the rest. (If you do not have branches where you want them, leave a few extra so you can thread graft them next winter). Let them grow to about 2mm thickness and then lightly wire them so they leave the trunk at the correct angle (that's up to you but 45 to 60 degrees is good for this species I think). Remove the wire when they're set in place and then let them rocket away without touching them for the entire year.
In the next few years (no rush) you can start thread grafting a few seedlings everytime you repot to improve the nebari.
Something like this:
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=18223&hilit=refinin ... nese+maple
All you need to do is plan for it by acquiring the seedlings. What you need to do now is wait for it to shoot. Pick the best placed branches (buds) and remove all the rest. (If you do not have branches where you want them, leave a few extra so you can thread graft them next winter). Let them grow to about 2mm thickness and then lightly wire them so they leave the trunk at the correct angle (that's up to you but 45 to 60 degrees is good for this species I think). Remove the wire when they're set in place and then let them rocket away without touching them for the entire year.
Last edited by treeman on August 23rd, 2015, 4:35 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Japanese Maple choices - Beginer
I agree now, don't tourniquet. Not sure what I was thinking earlier, maybe it was the perspective or the trunk looked like it could have had more growing to do in perspective with the rest of the tree in the videos.
If you were unhappy with the scale of the large roots at the front, i'd actually think air-layering just above the ground would be a better idea, but I digress, you can work with what you've got currently.
I think you could possibly try the tooth-pick and rooting hormone method, for more roots, if grafting is going to be too much of an issue. It will necessitate bringing the soil line back up above the root-flare area though.
If you were unhappy with the scale of the large roots at the front, i'd actually think air-layering just above the ground would be a better idea, but I digress, you can work with what you've got currently.
I think you could possibly try the tooth-pick and rooting hormone method, for more roots, if grafting is going to be too much of an issue. It will necessitate bringing the soil line back up above the root-flare area though.