Melaleuca Propagation

[Pearcy001]

Hi all.

There is a street tree directly outside my house. I believe it may be Melaleuca linariifolia? It seems to have very short white flowers which grow in clusters on a single branch.











Just wondering what the best method for propagating would be (cutting, seed etc.) And also when would be the best timing to attempt these?

Additionally if they back bud well could I put a layer on if I'm able to find a good spot? I have read on the Wiki layers can be done in Summer, but for this tree foliage is mainly at the tips due to foliage shading out the inner branches.

If I were to layer it on a nice section of trunk, could I trunk chop it further down the track to bare wood and have it survive? Or is linariifolia (if that's what this is) one of the subspecies that will keel over without foliage? I know I'm asking alot of questions but finally, how thick can a layered branch be on these and survive?

Cheers,
Pearcy.

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[Steve B]

it certainly looks a lot like the linariifolia's I have - but that's a self diagnosis so I could be well wrong

I find these guys work well as cuttings and layers in Sydney climate all through summer. Cuttings up to about 5mm stem diameter kept in a covered propagating tray had over 80% success rate. Airlayers seemed fine - I went out to maybe 30mm trunk diameter with pretty good success rates using RayM methods. I did one large ground layer at about 150mm that worked out too.

I have always left green at the ends of anything I've worked on, although occassionally they will throw out a bud on a branch with no green but I don't think you can count on it.

Biggest challenge I found was planting them out after propagation. Given the high success rates I possibly over allowed for my horticultural capabilities and tried to do too much rootwork first up and/or didn't keep them wet enough at the time. Big believer in the often stated thread of keeping Mel's in trays of water over summer since then. Many say gravel in the trays, but I go as far as having them sitting in shallow trays that retain water in them between waterings - not a lot of water, but enough to keep the surface layer of the inorganic mix I use (2/3 diatomite, 1/3 zeolite) damp throughout the day. I have killed less this way, but that's probably a reflection of my random approach to watering....

With a tree across the road I think you should jump on it now and start experimenting with some cuttings and the odd airlayer and see what you can learn

[Pearcy001]

Hi Steve,

Thanks greatly for sharing your experience. I'll try get a layer on in the coming days and then another at the end of January.

Did you find you had better success with taking cuttings from vertical growth or it did not matter? Also was it hardwood or semi-hardwood cuttings that you found better?

Cheers,
Pearcy.

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[shibui]

Agree with all Steve has posted. Cuttings are relatively easy. Probably best from semi hard wood in summer but they will strike any time of year.
I reckon vertical growth gives better cuttings, probably because it is stronger and has more natural growth substance but horizontal growth will still strike. It is well documented that cuttings taken from horizontal growth will frequently continue to try to grow horizontal after rooting - almost as if it was a prostrate variety. They nearly always change back to normal growth habit after a year or 2 though.

I have never tried to layer any paper barked trees but they should strike well. Just need to cut through all that bark to get down to the cambium.

[shibui]

Seed is also very easy but it will take a couple more years to catch up to the cuttings.
Collect mature seed pods (grey/brown colour) and put them in a paper bag or open container so they will dry. As the pods dry they will open and shed very fine, dustlike seed. Sprinkle the seed sparsely over the top of potting mix and keep it damp until they germinate. Prick out into individual pots when the seedlings are large enough to handle.

[Pearcy001]

Thank you for the information Neil

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[treeman]

I have seen this species ''layer'' itself into it's own bark so it should be very willing put out roots given half a chance.