First bonsai 40th

[Nickbb]

So I was given a ficus for my 40th. I realise it is a commercial bonsai and not very big. Currently has a span of about 35-40 cm. I've always admired bonsai so I'm going to have a crack. I picked up something from Bunnings but I'll leave that to another thread. I have some questions.

1 species, native?
2 I put some wire on it to bring the lower branches forward and put some shape in them. How long to leave the wire?
3 how much hurt can I put on the thicker branch? Im struggling to get any bend in it and it's very straight.
4 I'm in seqld nights are down around low teens probably get some single digits soon, is it ok to take off the tips?
5 can I do something to encourage overall size particularly the trunk?

[Nickbb]

[shibui]

It can take a few tries to master posting pictures so I guess your pics have not loaded properly as I can only see one with some leaves - not much to give good advice on so far. Try compressing the files to reduce file size under 1mb for them to load here.

My guess it is a ficus but can be really hard to be certain which species and therefore if it is a native one or exotic.
There is no definite time to leave wire on. Some branches set in place in just a few weeks but some take several months. Best option is to leave wire until the branch grows enough to start putting pressure on the bark. Keep a good eye on it all the time to make sure it does not mark the branches too much as wire marks can happen when not checking and look terrible.
Hard to express or measure how much pressure you can exert on a branch to bend it. Mostly just by feel and experience unfortunately but ficus (if that's what it is) are usually quite flexible.
Ficus grow best in warmer weather so I don't trim or repot in winter. Try some patience and wait for spring and warmer weather before pruning.
Fortunately ficus trunks thicken even in smaller pots but it does take a few YEARS. Thickening and growth can be sped up a little by giving the tree a larger container for more root growth and plenty of fertilizer then also allowing the branches to grow. Lots of leaf = lots of energy = more growth and more thickening. To get more growth you will have to sacrifice having a neat and tidy bonsai for a few years so consider whether you'd rather have a nice bonsai or a big bonsai. You can't have both at the same time if you start with a smaller tree.
Sacrifice branches can also help to increase thickness in selected areas of a bonsai.

Look forward to better photos for more detailed info.

[Nickbb]

Thanks admin for fixing up my triple post!
Yes I tried to upload a heap of photos
I'm happy to let it grow, should I put it in a pot or a bonsai dish?
Can I put a saucer under the trunk while letting it bulk in a box, there's an Bunnings basket on the deck that could be lined with shade cloth to hold a loose substrate.

[Nickbb]

I think I'm going to have to get on my laptop for photos,

[shibui]

I can understand your enthusiasm but you are still asking questions which require us to know more about the tree and your conditions. Only you know all those things so far so it is difficult for any of us to give truly useful answers.
As I said yesterday, a larger container will usually give more growth and therefore quicker thickening but need to temper that with where it is now and what you actually want to achieve. Like any journey you really need to know where you are going in order to set off in the correct direction.
Cooler weather is NOT the best time to do any repotting for ficus. They may tolerate it up there in warmer conditions but down here we rarely do any work with ficus while it is cold.
Some people put something under a trunk while growing ion the belief it will improve roots (nebari) That technique needs to be coupled with good root pruning to be any use. I don't even bother because good root pruning will achieve a much better result anyway. Ficus can be root pruned fearlessly with no adverse affects so do not be frightened of cutting roots when the time comes. Remember winter is NOT a good time for that.

If you stick with bonsai you will gradually come to understand that we cannot do everything at once. Bonsai is about learning to work with the rhythms of growth and the seasons. Waiting and patience are a big part of successful bonsai.

[Nickbb]

I am having a hard time getting photos up
I am in SEQLD, Caloundra an hour north of Brisbane.

[Nickbb]

I apologise for my scrappy start on here.
I am here to learn and dont be shy to tell me if I have it upside down.
I have had this tree less than week. It was a gift from my sister for my 40th. I have never tried Bonsai but have always liked them.

Inspecting the tree I notice the scar seems soft and fungusy, my thought was to scrape it back lightly and seal it. Is this right, what do you call the stuff?

I have tipped it, hopefully not a mistake

I have put a bit of wire on lower branches as they were quite straight and to make them reach forward

I want to grow it out, big trunk. I will put it into a bigger box, I can knock one up out of wood easily or I have a IGA basket that could be used, or a styro box. how big should the box be?

I will attempt to manipulate the root sticking out in a way that was recommended in another post I read on here.

I have a concern and I have some photos bellow showing the middle section. I think there are too many branches in one spot and will grow into an awkward fat spot, any recommendations on where to cut and when? I was thinking maybe the branch my finger tip is on

How to shape the crown for future growth?

I hope not to become a pest!

thanks for any input in advance.
Nick

[Nickbb]

Thanks Shibui for chipping in. I dont mind letting it go at all. I guess im looking for some advice on what maintenance needs to be done to create a good foundation first.

[shibui]

Your thoughts seem to be quite advanced for a beginner which probably reflect the research you've been doing. That makes a great start and there's no need to apologise for any stumbles as you find your way in both Ausbonsai and in bonsai itself.

One of the biggest things to learn is that bonsai is not mathematics. There's rarely one single answer that will cover any situation. Our favorite answer is 'it depends'.
Mistakes are rare. Different choices usually just lead to different paths and many will eventually lead you to the same or similar outcome and even if the outcome is different it is still an outcome so we just change tack and work toward a different goal.

There's no way to tell you what size box or pot to use. It depends on what size you want to achieve, How long you want it to take, how much space you have and a hundred other factors. Whatever size you decide on will be correct.

Ficus have soft wood so it is not unusual that the wood in the scar is rotting. By all means scrape out softer wood if possible. If there is still solid wood underneath there's a possibility the scar could heal over. Treat the cleaned wood with something to deter fungus for a while - lime sulphur is one traditional wood preserver - then seal. Sealing helps the cambium grow over the area and should slow down rotting. There are several bonsai sealers commonly available - Kiyonal comes in a tube and has the consistency of toothpaste. Bonsai cut putty comes in a tub and is more like plasticine. Some growers have also used other things as wound dressing and had similar results. The important factor seems to be to stop the cut edges from drying out and to keep rain and sun off the dead wood.
If the underlying wood has rotted too far the wound is unlikely to heal over successfully as callus needs a solid substrate to grow on. You can then choose to make a feature of the hollow in your trunk - hollow trunks are not fatal to trees. You've probably seen old trees that are completely hollow and still healthy. many trees have hollow limbs or trunks where birds and animals make homes so we can embrace hollows as part of bonsai.
Another option is to fill the hollow with something solid for the new callus to grow over. Epoxy putty, builders bog, gap filler, etc are all suitable things that can fill holes in trees.
Scraping the edges of the live area inside the hollow before sealing can stimulate faster growth of the cambium and therefore quicker closure of the wound.

The trimmed tips may take a while to grow again now that the weather is cool but won't affect long term viability.

Wiring and shaping can be done almost any time of year. Look for some tips on neat and effective wiring. It should not only be effective but should also look attractive as we have to look at it for up to a year. Wire can not only move the position of a branch but can also shape the whole branch. Stiff, straight branches don't always look great. Some undulations up and down and side to side can look more natural.

I agree with your assessment of too many branches too close together in places. In the area you are talking about I am conflicted as to which to remove. The left side branch is a bit thicker than looks good so it would be good to remove it but that leaves 2 branches close together on the right and a bigger space on the left.
Taking the one your finger is on will solve the problem of 2 branches close together but still leaves the thicker branch opposite.
Sometimes there's no easy answer and we have to accept something that's not as good as we like. I'd agree with taking the finger branch out for now.

When trying to decide how to shape a tree I like to consider what shapes the species grows naturally. As a resident of QLD you will know figs much better than I do but my idea of fig is a thick trunk with buttress roots, large branches arching up and out and a large, umbrella canopy so that's what I'd be striving towards. Achieving it from where your tree is now is a case of regular cut back to stimulate even more branching that you can direct up and out toward the desired outline.

If your aim is increasing trunk thickness a bit quicker you should probably limit pruning for a couple of years. Growth = thickening. Fortunately ficus are also good at new shoots on old wood so when the time comes to chop sacrifice branches you can be assured of plenty of new shoots to grow the apex from.
If you have more patience, ficus are one of just a few species I know that continue to thicken even when confined to small pots and kept trimmed. My small ficus rubiginosa have to be regularly up potted because the trunks get too fat for the original pots. Allow 10-20 years for this instead of 3-5 years in a larger container but it will happen.
Ficus also love fertiliser. They still survive on almost nothing but are much healthier and grow way faster with regular applications of fertiliser. No need to ask which fert to use. Plants are not fussy and will use whatever nutrients you give them regardless of what packet it is wrapped in.

[Nickbb]

This is good. But I'm confused do I need to do something about that fat junction before letting it go?

[Eric]

From the leaves and bark I would say it is a Port Jackson fig, its usually the red petioles that give them away. Very hard to kill,have you thought about air-layering it just above those two massive roots, make a wicked taper and much short tree.

[Nickbb]

Eric I think my sister would have a heart attack next time she comes for lunch. I have been looking around the garden and have just set up a bag and sphagnum on a grevillea, not sure on the species but it has a purple flower, short and wide. I'm going to start trying to collect projects in different stages.

[Nickbb]

I'll visit the nursery it came from and see if I can ID soon. Flying back to work for a week today

[KIRKY]

Sweet present
With regards the trunk thickening and the side root. As a suggestion any off cuts from your tree could be planted between the trunk and root gap. Ficus fuse really well so eventually your cuttings will grow into the gap, fuse to the original trunk and existing root creating a thicker trunk over time.
Cheers
Kirky