Repotting some tridents
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Repotting some tridents
Winter is rapidly running out so time to get on with some repotting before the trees wake up.
First is an older trident. This one has been developed slowly in pots so no pruning scars. I had not realised how much the roots had grown until this old pots mesh appeared on the surface. That mesh has not migrated up through the roots. Every year roots have grown through and below the mesh so the whole tree has moved up this far from the original planting depth. Note that that piece of mesh was not the last time I repotted. It's from some time in the past 12 years since I have been using the plaster mesh when repotting.
For what it is worth, I don't start raking out the roots. I find they are way too tangled around the edges and bottom so I cut around the edge to remove the tangled part. Then cut across the bottom to remove that tangled pad of roots underneath.
After that it is easier to rake out the remaining roots and decide where to cut for the final root trim.
This time I decided to trim as hard as I can to get the tree back down into the pot where it should be.
Hard to see in the photo but under the trunk is just wood. Years of pruning down roots have left feeder roots growing from the lateral roots around the trunk and almost none growing underneath. Finally, back in the pot ready for another few years.
First is an older trident. This one has been developed slowly in pots so no pruning scars. I had not realised how much the roots had grown until this old pots mesh appeared on the surface. That mesh has not migrated up through the roots. Every year roots have grown through and below the mesh so the whole tree has moved up this far from the original planting depth. Note that that piece of mesh was not the last time I repotted. It's from some time in the past 12 years since I have been using the plaster mesh when repotting.
For what it is worth, I don't start raking out the roots. I find they are way too tangled around the edges and bottom so I cut around the edge to remove the tangled part. Then cut across the bottom to remove that tangled pad of roots underneath.
After that it is easier to rake out the remaining roots and decide where to cut for the final root trim.
This time I decided to trim as hard as I can to get the tree back down into the pot where it should be.
Hard to see in the photo but under the trunk is just wood. Years of pruning down roots have left feeder roots growing from the lateral roots around the trunk and almost none growing underneath. Finally, back in the pot ready for another few years.
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Re: Repotting some tridents
Also potted up another shorter trident I've been developing branches on for a few years.
No before shots. I only decided to take photos after I approach grafted some extra roots. The pieces of wood are because the nails I had on hand were a bit long. Hopefully they will put enough pressure on the seedlings to hold them in place while the grafts unite this summer.
Another view underneath a shibui trident root system. This one is still trying to grow a few down roots. Regular severe root pruning will slowly stop that.
No before shots. I only decided to take photos after I approach grafted some extra roots. The pieces of wood are because the nails I had on hand were a bit long. Hopefully they will put enough pressure on the seedlings to hold them in place while the grafts unite this summer.
Another view underneath a shibui trident root system. This one is still trying to grow a few down roots. Regular severe root pruning will slowly stop that.
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Re: Repotting some tridents
I can see whilst the concept of grafting seems quite technical and precise (in my own fairly naive mind), the actuality is you can use lots of methods and materials on hand to get the job done. Looks like a “ splint” made from pruned branches helping to hold it all together… very inventive!
Thanks for the descriptive photos… helps to demystify the process in many respects. I enjoy threads like this with great photos to document what is being done… much appreciated.
Thanks for the descriptive photos… helps to demystify the process in many respects. I enjoy threads like this with great photos to document what is being done… much appreciated.
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Re: Repotting some tridents
Some good points.
Understanding the basics of grafting opens up a whole world of possibilities.
Many different variations, techniques and materials have been used over thousands of years.
The basic premise is to place cambium of both parts in close contact so they will unite as the plants heal the cuts. There are many different ways to do that depending on the material we are working with and the results you want at the other side.
If I had been able to find my supply of grafting pins or had some shorter nails on hand I would not have needed the pruned twigs as spacers. That was just a spur of the moment decision to deal with a problem. You may note that the closest graft doesn't have a spacer. The nail has been driven right into the trunk of the bonsai and will be much harder to extract if/when the graft has united. From previous experience it will probably stay there and the new root grow over it as the root and trunk continue to thicken.
Understanding the basics of grafting opens up a whole world of possibilities.
Many different variations, techniques and materials have been used over thousands of years.
The basic premise is to place cambium of both parts in close contact so they will unite as the plants heal the cuts. There are many different ways to do that depending on the material we are working with and the results you want at the other side.
If I had been able to find my supply of grafting pins or had some shorter nails on hand I would not have needed the pruned twigs as spacers. That was just a spur of the moment decision to deal with a problem. You may note that the closest graft doesn't have a spacer. The nail has been driven right into the trunk of the bonsai and will be much harder to extract if/when the graft has united. From previous experience it will probably stay there and the new root grow over it as the root and trunk continue to thicken.
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Re: Repotting some tridents
Thanks
It's good to know what success looks like, and to feel like it's current rather than a post from when the Internet was young(er). What's more is roots are the least obvious part of a show bonsai. It still discomforts me to see so few roots. I'll be testing myself with nursery azaleas, to see what are possible recoveries.
I'd rather be a tree,
where it's cool & sunny,
than stuck in traffic,
going batshit,
it's the green life for me.
where it's cool & sunny,
than stuck in traffic,
going batshit,
it's the green life for me.
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Re: Repotting some tridents
I've found that azaleas can cope well with a hard root prune too, provided all other conditions are suitable. If they don't like your water, potting mix, sun, wind, etc, etc they just don't grow despite whatever root prune you give them.
FYI, I've transplanted azaleas all times of the year and have had great survival rates, even with massive root and top reductions so I'm not sure that a small spring repot window is totally correct.
FYI, I've transplanted azaleas all times of the year and have had great survival rates, even with massive root and top reductions so I'm not sure that a small spring repot window is totally correct.
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- melbrackstone
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Re: Repotting some tridents
Always good to see your trident repotting Neil.
I have a question, is that a curl grub in this pic?
I have a question, is that a curl grub in this pic?
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Re: Repotting some tridents
Down here we call those slaters. In other places they are called pill bug because of the way they roll up into a ball. Also known as wood louse or sow bug.
The most common ones have been introduced from Europe but there's at least one similar Aussie native.
Porcellio scaber, is the most widespread species in Australia. It is the one that does not roll up in a ball.
The one in the pic is the Pill bug, Armadillidium vulgare which has a harder shell and rolls up into a tight defensive ball.
Slaters usually only eat dead organic matter but in really high numbers can cause damage to seedlings. Certainly nothing to worry about for bonsai.
The most common ones have been introduced from Europe but there's at least one similar Aussie native.
Porcellio scaber, is the most widespread species in Australia. It is the one that does not roll up in a ball.
The one in the pic is the Pill bug, Armadillidium vulgare which has a harder shell and rolls up into a tight defensive ball.
Slaters usually only eat dead organic matter but in really high numbers can cause damage to seedlings. Certainly nothing to worry about for bonsai.
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- melbrackstone
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Re: Repotting some tridents
Might be a bit too warm for these little Europeans up there? They certainly love conditions here.Ahhh, thanks. I haven't seen them here!
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