Maple Layers

[MJL]

Somehow missed this thread - you’ve gotta be stoked with those results. Great job R3!


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[Ryceman3]

Somehow missed this thread - you’ve gotta be stoked with those results. Great job R3!


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I post in stealth mode... now you see me ... now you ...

[Mitch_28]

Is it better to remove air layers in warmer weather or would prior to spring growing be ok too? Have a maple as well one that I'd like to succeed. Great work with yours!

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[Ryceman3]

Is it better to remove air layers in warmer weather or would prior to spring growing be ok too? Have a maple as well one that I'd like to succeed. Great work with yours!

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Thanks Mitch. I think it’s absolutely fine to remove your layer prior to Spring, in fact I would say that it’s the ideal time to do it... providing of course you have plenty of roots on said layer. Good luck with it!

[Ryceman3]

Update on the trident that I layered in the first post in this thread... it's been a while!
My hand on which direction to go was forced when what was the "left" branch of the tree died back and was removed. I decided to give the tree a rest at that point and just let it grow for 16 months or so. The remaining branch at the bottom was lacking in any shoots low enough down to give me a decent branch structure (I am going for something small here) so in late-November I decided to make my own and set an approach graft. Below is a pictorial timeline of the process.

TriGraft IG_01.jpg

TriGraft IG_02.jpg

TriGraft IG_03.jpg

TriGraft IG_04.jpg

TriGraft IG_05.jpg

TriGraft IG_06.jpg

TriGraft IG_07.jpg

TriGraft IG_08.jpg

TriGraft IG_09.jpg

TriGraft IG_10.jpg

It was a pretty easy process really and looks to have been successful so I am thinking of setting another graft that will become my apex. Haven't done an approach graft before, so always nice to expand the skill set!

[TimS]

Always good to see your deciduous work in addition to your pines mate. You've done the right think introducing the graft low down for a smaller tree going by what is shown in the photos, seems like there's not much else you can do with it really.

Horticulturally speaking the graft looks good, nice section of contact for the cambium, so here's hoping it all goes smoothly for you and you can turn it into a great little mini

[stork]

Hi Ryceman can I ask was any thing done to the graft branch going into the graft site?
Was the branch left as it was and just inserted in the graft site?

Cheers George

[Akhi]

How long did that causing over on the approach take? And did you take any skin off the approach graft?

[Ryceman3]

Hi Ryceman can I ask was any thing done to the graft branch going into the graft site?
Was the branch left as it was and just inserted in the graft site?

Cheers George

I did remove the thinnest outer layer of "bark" to give the cambiums a direct point of contact but this branch was incredibly thin (not much more than 2mm at a guess) so in hindsight I doubt the risk of killing the graft branch to do that was really required.

How long did that causing over on the approach take? And did you take any skin off the approach graft?

Callusing was about 6 weeks ... but again, this is a very thin graft so I would think that would have an impact on how long the graft takes to knit/heal into position.
The way to know if the graft is good is to look at the diameter of the branch at the entry and exit points. If you see in the earlier images when the graft was placed, the part coming out of the trunk (the "keep" section) is thinner than the entry point. At the time I removed it, the diameter between entry and exit points was the same, or maybe even bigger on the exit side. That tells me the graft is now receiving a direct line of nutrients etc through the trunk because it has bulked up more than the donor branch prior to the graft site.
I'm no expert on this though - just my understanding.

[Mitch_28]

Nice one @Ryceman3, love your work

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[Kiki71]

It seems like a detailed and patient approach… WOW