Hi All,
I'm trying to work out a way to get some more bend in a large JBP trunk without cutting it.
It's more Niwaki then bonsai but it's in a pot!
I'm going to tilt it further but you can see the bare section im trying to add some movement to.
Any tools or suggestions on how i might bend this over 1-2 years?
JBP big bend!
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Re: JBP big bend!
It's very hard to give advice on the basis of one static image but from what I can see I would be looking to use rebar and strong guy wires to get the bend and hold it in position. Exactly how to do this is pretty much impossible to say without the tree in front of me but I would look for a way to safely and securely attach rebar to the top section and use the leverage it offers to compress, then either attach guy wires to the tree below, or another piece of rebar secured to the bottom section. Once in place the top rebar can be removed.
There you go, probably as clear as mud!
Other things to consider :
How well established is the base in the current pot. If it is not solid and the roots are getting ripped about during the process, that is obviously problematic.
Raffia or not is also something to consider. Some will say yes, some will say not required on pines. The advantage of no raffia is you can see the bend "hot spots" and monitor for tearing/damage, but then again with raffia maybe this damage could be avoided?? That's a personal choice ...
This is probably achievable by yourself (if experienced) but better if you have a friend who can help out. Could be a good thing to get a bonsai buddy to give you a hand if possible.
Time of year ... heading into a good time to do heavy bending. I think around March/April is a good time for big bending where I am.
Good luck with it. If all goes pear-shaped and you lose the top of the tree, it looks like there is potential to make a small tree from what is left at the bottom so hopefully all would not be lost?!

There you go, probably as clear as mud!
Other things to consider :
How well established is the base in the current pot. If it is not solid and the roots are getting ripped about during the process, that is obviously problematic.
Raffia or not is also something to consider. Some will say yes, some will say not required on pines. The advantage of no raffia is you can see the bend "hot spots" and monitor for tearing/damage, but then again with raffia maybe this damage could be avoided?? That's a personal choice ...
This is probably achievable by yourself (if experienced) but better if you have a friend who can help out. Could be a good thing to get a bonsai buddy to give you a hand if possible.
Time of year ... heading into a good time to do heavy bending. I think around March/April is a good time for big bending where I am.
Good luck with it. If all goes pear-shaped and you lose the top of the tree, it looks like there is potential to make a small tree from what is left at the bottom so hopefully all would not be lost?!

"NO CUTS, NO GLORY"
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Re: JBP big bend!
I'm wondering what a bend there will achieve, apart from experience of heavy bending. The trunk has almost no taper. Bending it won't add taper so you'll just have a bent trunk with no taper instead of a straight trunk with no taper.
I think I'd be looking at a chop and use one of the lower branches as a new leader. Think of the current trunk as a sacrifice branch
I think I'd be looking at a chop and use one of the lower branches as a new leader. Think of the current trunk as a sacrifice branch

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Re: JBP big bend!
100% agree with that for bonsai, but for Niwaki the taper isn’t really an issue so if that’s the direction you want to take with this tree having a go at putting in a bend makes sense.shibui wrote: ↑February 21st, 2025, 5:34 pm I'm wondering what a bend there will achieve, apart from experience of heavy bending. The trunk has almost no taper. Bending it won't add taper so you'll just have a bent trunk with no taper instead of a straight trunk with no taper.
I think I'd be looking at a chop and use one of the lower branches as a new leader. Think of the current trunk as a sacrifice branch![]()
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Re: JBP big bend!
Hi All,
Thanks for the advice, yes this isn't a bonsai but will become a nawaki once i've got it somewhere how id like it.
https://youtube.com/shorts/5Hxh88-6aGE?feature=shared
I'd previously tried to use a wood wedge where i would like the bend with 2 wire on either side attached to a metal pole and that didn't really do the job
It's in the pot quite well as its been 3-4 years but the tree as a whole is still moveable, i'm going to lean it alot more when i repot it.
I had a few ideas such as do i lean the tree with a wood block under the pot, then secure the area to be bent then use a ratched strap near the top so the bending point is where it "cannot move"
Or do i make some crazy contraption that has wires above and below the bend point that then attached with a big screw which puts pressure on the bend point , a bit like a giant "branch bender"
Below is an examples i guess of the direction it is going
Thanks for the advice, yes this isn't a bonsai but will become a nawaki once i've got it somewhere how id like it.
https://youtube.com/shorts/5Hxh88-6aGE?feature=shared
I'd previously tried to use a wood wedge where i would like the bend with 2 wire on either side attached to a metal pole and that didn't really do the job
It's in the pot quite well as its been 3-4 years but the tree as a whole is still moveable, i'm going to lean it alot more when i repot it.
I had a few ideas such as do i lean the tree with a wood block under the pot, then secure the area to be bent then use a ratched strap near the top so the bending point is where it "cannot move"
Or do i make some crazy contraption that has wires above and below the bend point that then attached with a big screw which puts pressure on the bend point , a bit like a giant "branch bender"
Below is an examples i guess of the direction it is going
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Re: JBP big bend!
Not surprised the first attempt did not bend the trunk. The bar does not seem to be secured to the tree and the pulling wires are not connected to the bar so the entire tree will just pull over rather than bending.
You should be able to bend it with a longer bar and block but the block/wedge will need to be way bigger than the previous. The bar needs to be secured to the lower trunk. Block where the bend is required then pull the upper trunk toward the top of the bar. Brown = block
red = ties
grey = metal bar
A couple of things to be aware of:
1. cushion all contact points with the trunk (block, ties) There will be a lot of pressure at those points for quite some time which tends to damage the bark at those contact points.
2. Not sure what sized bar you'll need. It will obviously need to be stronger than the trunk or you'll still have a straight tree but a beautifully bent bar. Also not sure how you will pull the top over. Ratchet straps work well but the pull needs to be longer than the ratchet. This one might not have enough space between bar and trunk to use one.
To get extra leverage they often tie another bar to the upper trunk, starting just above the block and tying in several places to secure the longer bar well to the upper trunk. Then pull on the top of that bar while pushing against the bottom bar. If you manage to bend it you then need to tie the trunk to the lower bar to hold it in place - all without letting go of the upper lever bar. Usually best to have several pairs of hands on site for a job like this.
You should be able to bend it with a longer bar and block but the block/wedge will need to be way bigger than the previous. The bar needs to be secured to the lower trunk. Block where the bend is required then pull the upper trunk toward the top of the bar. Brown = block
red = ties
grey = metal bar
A couple of things to be aware of:
1. cushion all contact points with the trunk (block, ties) There will be a lot of pressure at those points for quite some time which tends to damage the bark at those contact points.
2. Not sure what sized bar you'll need. It will obviously need to be stronger than the trunk or you'll still have a straight tree but a beautifully bent bar. Also not sure how you will pull the top over. Ratchet straps work well but the pull needs to be longer than the ratchet. This one might not have enough space between bar and trunk to use one.
To get extra leverage they often tie another bar to the upper trunk, starting just above the block and tying in several places to secure the longer bar well to the upper trunk. Then pull on the top of that bar while pushing against the bottom bar. If you manage to bend it you then need to tie the trunk to the lower bar to hold it in place - all without letting go of the upper lever bar. Usually best to have several pairs of hands on site for a job like this.
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Re: JBP big bend!
Hi,
Sorry that was prob a really poor photo i managed to dig one up that i took.
That's interesting! as what i tried what upper and lower the bar was fix then i used the wedge and hammered in it.
Attaching it low place a block then trying to pull the top end in with leverage might do it, i couldn't visulise this until you made that picture.
I'll have to have a think about how i try do the top strap to pull it in.
Sorry that was prob a really poor photo i managed to dig one up that i took.
That's interesting! as what i tried what upper and lower the bar was fix then i used the wedge and hammered in it.
Attaching it low place a block then trying to pull the top end in with leverage might do it, i couldn't visulise this until you made that picture.
I'll have to have a think about how i try do the top strap to pull it in.
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Re: JBP big bend!
The new photo shows that you already factored in the upper and lower ties and padding. I would use wider ties if possible. Even through the rubber, those thin wires will put a lot of pressure on a very small part of the trunk and almost certainly leave marks. Doubling the rubber padding will also help distribute that pressure better and reduce marks.
The only thing I can see now is physics. This process is about levers and fulcrums. Archimedes is reputed to have said, ‘If you give me a lever and a place to stand, I can move the world.’ It will be much easier to bend the trunk if you have more distance between the wedge and the 2 ties. The longer you make that bar above and below the bend the more pressure you'll be able to put onto the bend and the easier it will be to pull the trunk across to the bar and hold the bend in place.
Distance from soil to the bend is fixed so use all of that as before but put the lower ties as low as possible. Also use a longer bar that goes as far above the bend as below will definitely help the process. It's not clear what sort of bar you used in the last attempt but my gut feeling is you may need a stronger bar. That trunk is likely to require some strength to make the bend required and to hold it in place and the bar has to be able to provide that strength. (more physics there - forces act equally in opposite directions)
It will be easier to make the bend if you have a longer lever to pull the top of the trunk across which is why I mentioned tying another temporary lever to the top section above the proposed bend. To counteract that, you will need some way of securing the pot or lower trunk so it stays put when you put pressure on the top.
I already mentioned an alternative way to apply more force- something to multiply your force such as ratchet strap, pulleys or turnbuckle but, as mentioned, most of those require more space to work effectively.
Good luck with the project. I'd be interested to see the results if you work out how to make it happen.
The only thing I can see now is physics. This process is about levers and fulcrums. Archimedes is reputed to have said, ‘If you give me a lever and a place to stand, I can move the world.’ It will be much easier to bend the trunk if you have more distance between the wedge and the 2 ties. The longer you make that bar above and below the bend the more pressure you'll be able to put onto the bend and the easier it will be to pull the trunk across to the bar and hold the bend in place.
Distance from soil to the bend is fixed so use all of that as before but put the lower ties as low as possible. Also use a longer bar that goes as far above the bend as below will definitely help the process. It's not clear what sort of bar you used in the last attempt but my gut feeling is you may need a stronger bar. That trunk is likely to require some strength to make the bend required and to hold it in place and the bar has to be able to provide that strength. (more physics there - forces act equally in opposite directions)
It will be easier to make the bend if you have a longer lever to pull the top of the trunk across which is why I mentioned tying another temporary lever to the top section above the proposed bend. To counteract that, you will need some way of securing the pot or lower trunk so it stays put when you put pressure on the top.
I already mentioned an alternative way to apply more force- something to multiply your force such as ratchet strap, pulleys or turnbuckle but, as mentioned, most of those require more space to work effectively.
Good luck with the project. I'd be interested to see the results if you work out how to make it happen.
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Re: JBP big bend!
Thanks this is helpful.
the idea to make the lever longer + attach it lower i think may help as when i hold the section to bend so its fixed, then bed from the very top i do get more flex in that section.
now its the mission of getting it all attached =o)
not that its a rush but every year im leaving it the trunk just gets thicker!
the idea to make the lever longer + attach it lower i think may help as when i hold the section to bend so its fixed, then bed from the very top i do get more flex in that section.
now its the mission of getting it all attached =o)
not that its a rush but every year im leaving it the trunk just gets thicker!