I have an opportunity to air layer an older Japanese Maple, not what I expected to come across this far north. It has just come out of dormancy in the last couple of weeks and is growing strongly. The question is what size layer should be best to attempt. The main branches are around 50 - 60 mm, would they be a viable option or would it be better to concentrate on this years new growth?
These are examples of the material not the intended layers.
Japanese Maple air layer options
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PWC
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Japanese Maple air layer options
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shibui
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Re: Japanese Maple air layer options
One of the advantages of layering is that we can strike larger/older wood because the tree keeps the layered area alive until it forms roots.
I've layered 30-40mm thick branches but have not personally done any as large as you are planning but should still be possible.
Having said that, younger wood always seems to root quicker and more reliably.
I'd probably hedge my bets and try a few of each.
Just FYI: I've never actually seen a great bonsai from a layer off a landscape tree. What looks great from the ground always seems to be too straight/thick/no taper/big scars when it finally makes it into a pot. My advice is to be very, very selective about where you choose to layer.
I've layered 30-40mm thick branches but have not personally done any as large as you are planning but should still be possible.
Having said that, younger wood always seems to root quicker and more reliably.
I'd probably hedge my bets and try a few of each.
Just FYI: I've never actually seen a great bonsai from a layer off a landscape tree. What looks great from the ground always seems to be too straight/thick/no taper/big scars when it finally makes it into a pot. My advice is to be very, very selective about where you choose to layer.
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PWC
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Re: Japanese Maple air layer options
My expectations are a bit more modest, a good bonsai would do me. I agree that there may not be any worthwhile material to layer, that being the case when would be the best time to try layering this years new growth? Or could you prune this year's new growth to try to develop movement this year and layer next year?shibui wrote: ↑October 24th, 2025, 8:36 pm One of the advantages of layering is that we can strike larger/older wood because the tree keeps the layered area alive until it forms roots.
I've layered 30-40mm thick branches but have not personally done any as large as you are planning but should still be possible.
Having said that, younger wood always seems to root quicker and more reliably.
I'd probably hedge my bets and try a few of each.
Just FYI: I've never actually seen a great bonsai from a layer off a landscape tree. What looks great from the ground always seems to be too straight/thick/no taper/big scars when it finally makes it into a pot. My advice is to be very, very selective about where you choose to layer.
Peter.
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shibui
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Re: Japanese Maple air layer options
apologies. I didn't mean younger growth to mean this years growth. Fresh shoots are not usually strong enough to layer. 2-4 year old is probably what I mean by 'younger'.when would be the best time to try layering this years new growth? Or could you prune this year's new growth to try to develop movement this year and layer next year?
Look for spots where you might be able to prune thicker stems back to side branches (taper and trunk bends) for best possibilities.
Pruning branches on the tree with an aim to layer in future is one possible way to improve the possibilities but you can also do that after it's layered.
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