Squamata Prostrata

[Mitchell]

Hi all!

Been eyeing off this stock for 3 months now. Was going to buy it a while back, then it was taken off show. Maybe someone was holding it? Well it appeared back on the nursery floor a couple of weeks ago and I decided not to pass it up this time.

I feel the bends in the trunk are a lil' too perfectly arranged (which is why I was hesitant the first time round), but apart from that I love it!

Can't wait to get started, I intend on taking this and the needle pine to clinton/ray's school to work on. Funny that, they sold the stock, now they are going to help me turn it into something! Great guys, and a quality operation all round, a credit to the community indeed.

Would love to here your thoughts on it's furture, plenty of branching to work with... Just good stock, happy I grabbed it.

[kvan64]

Looks very good. Would be great to see the base.
Cheers,
DK

[Mitchell]

Looks very good. Would be great to see the base.
Cheers,
DK

I have a gut feeling that there's not going to be any/much taper below soil. Also another reason I didn't grab it first go. Will definitely take more shots, i'll make sure I grab some of the base also.

I'm still in search of beta stock, but needed a fix/something to work on/something i'm afraid of killing/more advanced stock.

Thanks for the comment mate. I am glad I have picked something "very good" it shows perhaps I am learning.

[ozzy]

You need to cut it at the red line and work with the remaining branch thats arrowed, depending on where you're at in your bonsai journey you will either be horrified at this idea or it will make perfect sense.

[Mitchell]

Makes perfect sense mate...

But I am thinking a chop down may not be the only answer.
Lets say we planted it out in the ground, fed it like crazy for 5 years. Could we thicken that trunk up and establish taper/girth whilst retaining the pre-disposed height?

Chop down would be the obvious solution (which a lot of my tree seem to be getting these days) to an apparent problem, but i'm open to all suggestions at the time.

I value your opinion and appreciate your contribution. Thanks mate... I shall put a deal of thought into your mud map.

[ozzy]

Yes of course there are two reasons for keeping anything past the line, fattening up purposes and a jin.

[ozzy]

Air layer would be another if you could be bothered.

[Mitchell]

Air layer would be another if you could be bothered.

Wouldn't bother on this type of material mate.
Jin above the line does sound interesting though.

[Mitchell]

Feel free to rip it apart people.
I know it's not great stock. I'm not going to cry no matter what the suggestion.
Feel free to contribute, no matter what your skill level, all input is indeed appreciated. Please add your comment.

[shibui]

The trouble with planting a tree like this in the ground is all the growth is at the top of the trunk meaning the entire trunk will thicken equally just giving you a thicker trunk with no taper. Introducing some shari on the trunk can give the impression of taper.
Note that needle junipers are quite unconfortable to maintain and work on. As the name suggests those leaves are sharp!

[shibui]

Whoops its a squamata, not a needle juniper, sorry

[Mitchell]

Starting the reveal the base. Bad, but not as bad as I had thought. Plenty of feeder roots, this pot is crammed. Will build a grow box for it tomorrow, I still want to be able to transport it though.
I know I could get away with re-potting now, but is it a wise move? I wouldn't normally, but the pot is chockers and the plant doesn't look 100%. I'm worried it's pot bound and suffering.
By the look of the bark at the base of the trunk, it appears I have the start of a natural shari. Perhaps if I run it the full length of the trunk, I might be able to establish taper.

[Bretts]

Ever since seeing an elm that was not repotted for 27 years and still pushing on I always consider that no matter how root bound the tree will not die before the right time comes.
The best time for repotting is only around the corner and it will only put undue risk on the tree doing it too early.
Dunk the pot to water watch it carefully to manage and maybe even a little snake oil.

Then when the time is just right get stuck in. It might sound harsh but after cutting sat 1/3 of the root ball off belting the root ball on a hard surface is a good technique here. I mean like swing the tree over your head belt It will loosen alot up and I have found it is much less damaging than a more sensitive approach.
Then get delicate like working in close to the base.

[Mitchell]

Ever since seeing an elm that was not repotted for 27 years and still pushing on I always consider that no matter how root bound the tree will not die before the right time comes.
The best time for repotting is only around the corner and it will only put undue risk on the tree doing it too early.
Dunk the pot to water watch it carefully to manage and maybe even a little snake oil.

Then when the time is just right get stuck in. It might sound harsh but after cutting sat 1/3 of the root ball off belting the root ball on a hard surface is a good technique here. I mean like swing the tree over your head belt It will loosen alot up and I have found it is much less damaging than a more sensitive approach.
Then get delicate like working in close to the base.

Thanks for the advice Bretts, it puts my mind at ease. I shall wait.

On a side note, checked the Needle juniper, frickin curl grubs!! HEAPS!
It's coming out tonight, and going into new mix. Can't stand them chewing away. Their gonna die...

[Mitchell]

Something like this Ozzie?
But possible with less dead wood.