Hi All ,
Have just read Alpineart's post Flowering Plum,once again very inspired.I have collected several large fruit trees in the winter of 09. Unfortunatelly i was very new to bonsai and took the tops off the branches in a very flat cut . Not to sure if they will ever heal. I intend to do the toothpick method where the graft is .I did several on some almonds last winter,will check soon to see if i mastered it.
Just want to know what you all think about the top of the tree. Try for a broom style ? maybe Air Layer the thicker branches ? Any ideas, other options, greatfuly accepted.
Thanks John.
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Hi John,
Looks like you will have to make some hard decision here.
a- The first order/primary branches are a bit too high and too large to be included in any reasonable composition.
b- There is no low enough branch to execute the chop and build a new leader to optimise taper.
c- It appears that the plant is grafted on a root stock (visible sign in the lower trunk) - This means you can't chop it too low otherwise die-back all the way down to the rootstock is inevitable.
My 2cents: Air-layer the top part near the thick branches (wait till end of winter to do it). This would maximise the options and choices e.g. multi-trunk or further airlayering of the top part...
Let the bottom part should up and grow freely to develop branches before making further decision.
Happy bonsaiing
DK
Always we hope someone else has the answer. Bonsai is an art of shrinking.
seems you might like a challenge, so I might throw a suggestion to you regarding your apricot.
Given the tree is of a substantial size and girth, but has no real movement or taper, ahve you considered
doing some carving ?
If this tree were mine, or was able to work on it, I would consider using one of the upper thicker branhes a the new apex.
There are a good selection of branches, but I might suggest going with one of the central `trunk` branches and go from there.
From the picture the small thin branch below the stronger one the right ( has a scar on it ) might be the start of the new branch placements as well as the three newer branches one the center `trunk` branch.
I would wire all these branches down in a dramatic sweeping `S` style of bend, plant the tree on a slight angle to the left,
( given that as this point Im assuming the front of the tree shall be close to the front you have shown in the photo ), and begin some serious carving to give the trunk some dramatic character.
Or reduce the right and middle branches down to the new growth, ( by way of carving, not cutting ), lean the tree to the right, and again, do some carving.
I am certain apricot has a hard timber, and I feel that this may give a whole new angle to your tree.
If I can manage a drawing or something, Ill post what I have in mind to indicate things a little more clearly.
Hope this idea might give you a different direction.
Hi D.K.
Thanks for the input ,always great to get another point of view, I was heading towards an air layer myself. Cheers
Hi Paul,
Thanks for your ideas about carving, great idea. I have been trying to work out your suggestions.I think i understand what you are saying . .Very much appreciated. Thanks .
Sorry about the late reply, computer problems am presently on dial up .
Regards John.
Hi Boom64 , nice start to a good project .I would set a layer around the grafted area first and use the growth of the top to produce the roots required .Then i would think about which direction to head for with the rest of the tree.Informal upright using the right hand thicker branch as the new leader , set the tooth picks on an angle to enhance the lean and movement of the trunk or thin out the center and cut the stubs back a bit for a broom style setting the roots level around the new base .Several possibilities but definately use the growth for root production .Looking forward to the next phase of your tree .Cheers Alpineart
Last edited by alpineart on May 31st, 2011, 8:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
Hi Alpineart,
Thanks for the advice , i was inspired by your plum post.I have a nectarine and a peach the same size so i might go a few of the options suggested.
Just two quick questions, should i repot ? As they are in a very free draining mix,mostly coarse sand with a small amount of fertilizer and It has nearly been two years. Also if i go for the broom style should i set the toothpicks higher up the trunk (not on the graft ).Hope i am not pushing it to much with the questions.
Will keep you posted , Regards John.
Hi Boom64 , for a broom its "each to his own . From what i can see the trunk has a bit of taper from the graft up .If you set it low you can always set more tooth picks up the trunk later down the track for a better Narebri . Set them high and you stuck with the height of the trunk to the fork of the tree . I wouldn't worry about a repot as you are going to grow a new root-mass . If you can try a thread graft or two to the lower base with a long shoot from next season , you might just end up with 2 excellent trainers . My plum produced 3 times the roots at the layer than on the original trunk did in 2 years .
Do a google on Flowering Apricots there is some great specimens to stimulate the senses , especially informal upright and slanting styles , again its all personal tastes. I have a couple of Necterines but they don't reduce in the leaf department and die back seems the norm , not that i take real good care of them . Grab some cloth and cover the base at the height you think will work and see what it looks like or make a cardboard cutout pot and set it up , cover some of the foliage , tilt the tree and look for another style , or pop it up for a vert . Never be in too much of a hurry and always leave your options open to change later on .Cheers Alpine
I have had a moment to look at the photo of your apricot again, and now that I have seen it on a larger screen ( usually on a small laptop ), I noticed that a lot of the branches were actually shadows
Given that, I have done a rough idea of how i may see this tree may start to take some shape.
Also a pic of another apricot that has a carved trunk ( though im not a huge fan of this tree, to be honest !!)
Anyway, hope this may help a little, I may do something else if time permits.
apricot 7.JPG
carved apricot.jpg
Regards,
Paul
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Hi Boom64 , PaulC has done justice for your Apricot , with a 35-45 degree tilt to the left or right , maybe rotate 180 degree to have the back as the front ? and it will give you 4 options .I will endevour to learn this verts caper one day , would save a lot of head space .Trouble is i spend too much time on this boat anchor {computer} now .Good planning Alpineart
Hi Paul,
Thanks for a great virt. I realy like the look of the tree. Also the great notes you provided.
Just a few a quick questions before i embark on the project. You mentioned reducing the trunk with a olipitical wide spiral .I take it this goes around the back of the trunk ? Also should i start carving now, that is, do the major carving work now and work on the refinement later. Treat with lime sulphur/black ink mix or let it weather naturely ?
I have read that trees should not be repotted for two years after carving ,or maybe repot and then start carving ?
Once again a big thanks Paul, hope i am not taking to much of your time.
Regards John.
P.S. Hopefuly i will be able to post a picture of the tree in spring bloom.
Not to sure if they will ever heal. I intend to do the toothpick method where the graft is .I did several on some almonds last winter,will check soon to see if i mastered it. 
