Branch development
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Branch development
Hello all.. Can anyone give me some tips on how to develope good branches. I have a few ash and now olive stumps and I still don't really know how to do it. Is it best to just let it grow untouched for how every long it takes or do you let it grow for a season cut back and grow some more?? Once a branch is cut while it thicken up any more??
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Re: Branch development
Hey Goff, are you in a club? Developing branches is really quite basic , but being in a club really does help.
Mick
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Re: Branch development
Hi Goff, cut and grow and cut and grow and wire, wire and more wire. Don't let the branches get too heavy remember they will thicken during the whole life of the tree. The more you feed the more they will grow and the more you can cut.
Craigw
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Re: Branch development
Hi Goff
In Peter Adams' book. He says he develops branches on maples about 2 inches per season. Grow then trim back to 2 leaves then repeat thru the season
Keep going and ramifying till sufficient size
Ken
In Peter Adams' book. He says he develops branches on maples about 2 inches per season. Grow then trim back to 2 leaves then repeat thru the season
Keep going and ramifying till sufficient size
Ken
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Re: Branch development
Allow shoots to grow, wire the base to the angle and movement you want then let it grow some more. When set, cut back really hard usually to the first buds.
Be careful wiring fresh shoots. At first they are only connected to the trunk by a layer of bark and can be twisted right off the trunk. Better to allow them to grow a bit first.
Cut off any thing that has long internodes and let it grow again from buds at the base. (how long is 'long'? - depends on whether the tree is to be small or large). Plenty of trees around that had the branches developed too quickly and look awkward. Often the first shoots put out by a pruned tree are very strong, often vertical and usually with long, awkward internodes. Subsequent budding is usually less vigorous and is better for developing branches.
Try to get 3d movement into branches - up/down as well as side to side.
branches grown by clip and grow look much better than wired ones. Use wiring to adjust angle and direction rather than to form curves for movement.
Allow a few years to develop good branches. It is quicker than growing some quick branches then realising when the tree matures that the are not good enough and having to start again.
Remove shoots and branches that are in the wrong place and thin out multiple shoots as soon as you can. Excess shoots cause the trunk to swell and leave unsightly bulges.
Be careful wiring fresh shoots. At first they are only connected to the trunk by a layer of bark and can be twisted right off the trunk. Better to allow them to grow a bit first.
Cut off any thing that has long internodes and let it grow again from buds at the base. (how long is 'long'? - depends on whether the tree is to be small or large). Plenty of trees around that had the branches developed too quickly and look awkward. Often the first shoots put out by a pruned tree are very strong, often vertical and usually with long, awkward internodes. Subsequent budding is usually less vigorous and is better for developing branches.
Try to get 3d movement into branches - up/down as well as side to side.

Allow a few years to develop good branches. It is quicker than growing some quick branches then realising when the tree matures that the are not good enough and having to start again.
Remove shoots and branches that are in the wrong place and thin out multiple shoots as soon as you can. Excess shoots cause the trunk to swell and leave unsightly bulges.
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Re: Branch development
get the bonsai inspraitions book by harry harrington, it has the best description of how to develop branches i have seen with detailed diagrams and progression pictures. There is nothing basic building branches.