Fertilising Tips

[The Specimen]

My trees cringe and wished that I had paid them more attention though glad that I have found this forum..

Ok so Im not scientist when it comes to feeding my trees and without wanting a scientific (complex) solution, can people please simply the techniques to fertilizing.

I have heard about this NPK though it does not tranlate to what it does for my trees and what I should be looking for..

If I want a strong vigorous n health growth for my trees then I fertilize right.. so what does different variations achieve when in my belief we all want strong healthy happy specimens??

[shibui]

Like many other things, everyone will have their own favorite fertiliser and fertilising program but trees are very resilient and will still grow under most fert regimes.
Most important thing is to actually use some sort of fertiliser. Don't worry about what sort, just do it regularly. Water dissolves soluble fertiliser from the potting mix so that the plants can absorb it through their roots.The trouble is we water bonsai a lot and the water that drips out the bottom of the pot is taking fertiliser with it so without adding fert regularly the tree soon starts to get hungry and will not grow well. Anything is better than nothing.

NPK simply:
N - Nitrogen helps plants grow strong and green. High nitrogen fertiliser will help the tree grow longer and stronger. Use high N when developing a trunk and branches.
P - Phosphorus helps strengthen plant cells and promotes root growth.
K - Potash (potassium) helps strengthen plant cells and promotes reproduction ie flowers and fruit.

The NPK ratio on a pack tells you how much of each element is in the fertiliser. 13:3:2 means it has 13% Nitrogen, 3% phosphorus and 2% potash (the other 82% may be some trace elements but is mostly just filler that the plants do not use.)

TE - Trace elements: plants also need very small quantities of other elements to grow and stay healthy. Most organic ferts and many modern ferts have suitable amounts of trace elements.

Soluble - means the fertiliser dissolves easily in water so it is available to the plant immediately. it also means that it will leach out of the mix when you water and will soon be gone.
Slow release - means the fertiliser releases nutrients a bit at a time over a long period. This is good for those of us who tend to forget to fertilise regularly.
I mix a slow release (osmocote) into the potting mix and follow up with a variety of soluble ferts watered on through the growing season whenever I remember.

Most organic fertilisers have very low amounts of NPK so you can put heaps on without harming the plants.
Many inorganic fertilisers are quite strong and there is a risk of overdosing the plants so use the recommended rates on the pack at first. There is no need to use fertiliser below full strength for bonsai.

I work on the idea that variety is good. My body would not do its best on a diet of one type of food. We eat a variety of foods so our bodies can take the elements they need. Same with plants - If you use a variety of fertilisers regularly the plants will, hopefully, get most of what they need.

Fertilising can get much more detailed and sciency but the important thing is to feed your plants often and, anything is better than nothing.

[The Specimen]

Wow Shibui just what myself and many others I am sure will appreciate the time and effort to explain..

Thoroughly explained and understood.. puuurrrfect ^^

Many thanks again!

[kcpoole]

Thanks Shibui

I have added this info to our Wiki Fertiliser page here
https://www.ausbonsai.com.au/wiki/index. ... ser_basics
Anything else needs to be added or changed?

and thanks for the original post Spec

Ken