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Re: Peter Adams Workshop Trees
Posted: September 20th, 2009, 1:54 pm
by bodhidharma
Nice to see someone who is not frightened to strip a tree down and start again. That is the meaning of patience. Never mind Bretts, it will grow and develop so fast it'll be showtime in another five years
Re: Peter Adams Workshop Trees
Posted: September 20th, 2009, 3:41 pm
by Bretts
Danica shook her head at me again after she saw what I did to it. It was becoming her favourite tree. She sees these trees redevelop but still can't stop shaking her head at me
I loved Walter Pall's words. If you show it to your wife after you have cut it back and she say's that is ugly it looked better before then you have done a good job
Re: Peter Adams Workshop Trees
Posted: September 20th, 2009, 6:14 pm
by anttal63
brett im lovn watchn where ya bonsai is goin lately! atta boy it lookn a rippa already. FRESH!!!
Re: Peter Adams Workshop Trees
Posted: October 18th, 2009, 9:28 pm
by Bretts
I was just thinking about the pot that Peter suggested for the Hornbeam. One of the things he stated at the summit was that to Mirror the foliage was a good way to decide on a pot I always thought an oval pot for this tree I wonder why he went with rectangular?
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Re: Peter Adams Workshop Trees
Posted: October 18th, 2009, 9:42 pm
by Bretts
FlyBri wrote:Goodonya Brettles!
I can only echo the positive comments made by others regarding the work on your trees, but most especially the Hornbeam: it has come along in leaps and bounds, and I believe Mr Adams' vision for it to be a realistic and desirable goal! The work you've done has reduced the top-heaviness of the trunk, and in years to come the taper should even out nicely.
As for the Elm... I think I know why you believe that first branch needs to come down: the stub of the 2nd branch appears to be pointing ever so slightly downward in the photos, and the basic framework is beginning to resemble that of a conifer Bonsai, in which case the 1st branch should (traditionally?) be at or below the horizontal. The 2nd branch stub suggests the beginning of the classic 'drop branch' on a Juniper, and affects perceptions of the rest of the tree. I would try to ignore that feeling, and maybe even cut that stub right off and start the branch again in a more upright position. In short, I think the 1st branch is OK at the moment, and it is the 2nd branch which is troublesome. Does that make any sense?
Another potential solution could be to tilt the tree to the right a bit, but not so far that the 1st branch is at/below horizontal. That might help in a couple of ways: it will lower the 1st branch (as you wish) and also bring the 2nd into a more upright position. While you're at it, you could lean the tree away from the viewer by a handful of degrees. In this scenario, you would likely have to pot-up (and deeper) to allow the exposed roots some thickening time.
Anyway, both trees are worthy of much consideration and time.
Wishing I could have been there...
Fly.
By chance I just re-read this post Fly and realised I missed what you where saying about the second branch on the elm. Good spot! as you may see I have removed this second branch to all but a stub and now as I try to get the exit just right I find issue with the stub exiting slightly down. I was thinking it could be managed with care of the regrowth but I will have another look tomorrow. I always think this branch should be millimeters higher anyway so it is very doable to pick a new shoot and start agian
Tom always said this was the most important branch
Re: Peter Adams Workshop Trees
Posted: October 19th, 2009, 12:35 am
by Pup
Re: Peter Adams Workshop Trees
Posted: October 10th, 2010, 2:22 pm
by Bretts
The apex leader of this tree has become quite a tribulation. Following on from Pups oh bugger moment I managed to force the apex over to balance the top. I could have snapped or killed the top very easily, but succeeded, only to have the leader die back from what I can only guess was some fungus issues last year. Several outer buds took longer to bud out and then succumbed to what I figure was the fungus.. I have been holding my breath all Winter hoping that I can start off agian from the next point down even though it looked a little weak. I had a very strong branch just a little further down that I held as a back up but feared the balance issue agian if I went with it. I am very happy to say that so far so good the new leader has come out fine this spring so far and not one iota of the fungus is present.
The plan will be to let this new leader grow strong for the season with some restraining of all other growth, No wiring this year. Last time it took me about 1 1/2 seasons growth so I expect about the same agian. Maybe 2-3 years and this guy will get into a display pot
But for now just unrestrained growth. Maybe look forward to some autumn colour that I missed last year
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Re: Peter Adams Workshop Trees
Posted: September 10th, 2011, 10:43 am
by Bretts
Thought I better update this guy. Looking a bit shabby at the moment as I have not wired it for a while but I love this tree. Still working at getting the leader strong. I must have weakened the top it a fair bit when I did the major bend as it is the first to slow down after coming out. There is a couple of strong leaders below that are tempting to use but we will see what happens this year. One is very strong and in the perfect spot for balancing the tree but it would leave some scaring to the front of the tree
Doing lots of bud tipping already on the stronger branches probably leave wiring till next year just clip and grow to get the strength where I need it for now. I want lots of growth towards that apex
Also a partial defoliation later in the year to keep the inner buds strong.
I am thinking this year and maybe one more before I get it into a bonsai pot. Patience
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Re: Peter Adams Workshop Trees
Posted: October 4th, 2011, 5:00 pm
by Bretts
I have been tipping the new buds since the last picture and today as the leaves had mostly hardened I decided it was time to trim it back to about two leaves on every twig.
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I have not shaped the tree at all here but just trimmed it for horticultural reasons of opening the tree up again to strengthen the inner branches.
My leader is finally growing again. It slowed right down after budding out but soon started up again as I pinched it every where else. Frustratingly it did not do this last season which was weird. More fertiliser might have helped last year
I am confident it should thicken well by the end of the season and then I can work out what wood is alive and dead at the chop point to smooth out the scar and balance the leader.
I even ordered the pot suggested by Peter Adams from Erin pottery and it may just be ready for it next season.
