First Bonsai - Trident Maple

Liv · Post by **Liv** » January 30th, 2012, 8:39 pm

I got my first bonsai tree about a month ago and would just like to know the basic infomation needed for looking after it properly. I have been watering it at the least twice a day, but usually three times because of the summer weather. I water it by spraying the base of the tree around the roots until moist and then lightly spray the leaves and i also make sure it recieves daily sunlight.

Though I am unsure about trimming/pruning, when it is necessary to repot the tree and also removing the wire shaping the trunk (i think it had been left on too long when i purchased the bonsai.)

Finally, the leaves have began to droop but still look healthy in colour, is this just because it had a long day in the sun?

Thanks in advance.

Post by **Bougy Fan** » January 30th, 2012, 9:03 pm

Hi Liv and welcome

At the risk of offending you are you keeping the tree outside ? A lot of newbies think they can keep a tree inside - it is meant to be outside in the sun and air and should only be inside for a day or two for display purposes. If you are just misting the base you may not be watering it correctly - water should run out of the holes in the base. Remove the wire and just keep it alive for now. Being deciduous it can only be repotted in winter when it's dormant. Best advice is to read as much as you can and join a bonsai club. Good luck

Tony

Liv · Post by **Liv** » January 30th, 2012, 9:27 pm

Thanks for the quick reply Tony

I'm not keeping the tree completely outside but will definitely begin doing that and also watering it more at one time! Thank you for answering all my questions and I will try to find a club in my area that can help me in future and try purchase/borrow a few books on bonsai trees for beginners. Thanks again!

Andrew Legg · Post by **Andrew Legg** » January 30th, 2012, 10:37 pm

Hi Liv,

Welcome to Ausbonsai. There is a lot of info on watering on here, and the search function is great. That said, since I'm feeling verbose, let me sum it up for you.

At each watering, water well until water runs out of the holes underneath the pot. It is time to water it again once the soil is getting on the dryish side of damp. You can check this by scratching down into the soil a centimeter or so. Don't go on what the top looks like, as that will dry out a lot quicker than the rest of the soil. If you are worried about excessive heat, keep the plant in a spot that gets dappled shade for the day, or a good few hours of early morning sun and then shade for the rest. No windowsills please! Spraying the foliage is good, but there are quite a few people who will tell you to avoid this should the tree be in full sun. The important thing with watering is to water when the tree needs it, and not once a day or twice a day or according to some prescribed formula. If the tree is wilting and the soil is not dry, you need to be a bit careful. It could be a sign of root rot, or even that there is too much foliage for the amount of roots in the pot (can happen on a recently repotted tree where the ballance between roots and foliage was not maintained). If this is the case, I think you should make an effort to get experienced help with the tree as it may be on its way to becoming firewood! It is important to know that wilting can be caused by over-watering as well, so it's important to diagnose this immediately (from what you've said, my feeling is that this is not your problem though)

My suggestion is to first give the tree a good dunking to ensure that the entire potting mix is saturated. A mix that has dried out too much may not take on water effectively. Do this by placing the tree into a bowl of water that is just a bit lower than the soil level. Leave it in there for about 10 to 15 minutes and then remove it. You should be able to see the surface dampening up as the mix draws the water up through capiliary action. Then establish a routine of checking, and checking and checking, and once the mix starts to dry out, then water thoroughly again. Then check and check and check again and then water. Slowly you'll get a feel for how often the tree needs water for its size, pot size, location and air temperature. Remember that wind also plays a significant factor in drying out a tree and causing leaf wilt, so Maples in particular are not that happy in a windy location. What you may find out is that your tree needs water only once every second day. You may also establish that it needs water daily or even twice a day, but only correct watering and constant checking of soil dampness will give you the correct answer.

Finally, a picture says a thousand words, so why not show us your tree?

Tony has given you good advice. The sooner you join a club, then better!

Buy the bonsai book written by D Koreshof. It's the bomb! It's well written and well illustrated and is easy to follow.

It may look imposing, but it's worth it!

bodhidharma · Post by **bodhidharma** » January 30th, 2012, 10:59 pm

Onya Andrew

Great advice to a newby. It must be daytime in your part of the world. Well said.

Andrew Legg · Post by **Andrew Legg** » January 31st, 2012, 12:56 am

bodhidharma wrote:Onya Andrew Great advice to a newby. It must be daytime in your part of the world. Well said.

Thanks Bhodi,

Early in the day and for some reason I just couldn't help myself! Maybe it was because I had just had a glass of Coke! (the fluid kind)

Liv · Post by **Liv** » January 31st, 2012, 12:59 pm

Thanks so much Andrew for the detailed response, it really helped as I an still learning the ropes to bonsaing

I will definitely dunk my tree and will try find that book, I have also already reserved some books on bonsaing for beginners from my local library. I have noticed that over night the leaves have begun to perk up and look healthier, although only slightly and far from normal.

This is a picture of my bonsai a few weeks ago, sorry about the terrible lighting

This is a photo of it today...

I am definitely beginning to think that lack of water is the problem, especially because of the hot weather we have had here over the last few days, luckly it has plummeted again. Thanks again

Beano · Post by **Beano** » January 31st, 2012, 1:11 pm

Lovely tree, but it looks like its being ringbarked by the wire that is on it.

witchstreet · Post by **witchstreet** » January 31st, 2012, 1:25 pm

Well done, Andrew, great advice. I'm sure this little tree will survive. Welcome Liv to ausbonsai.

Liv · Post by **Liv** » January 31st, 2012, 1:44 pm

I have noticed that

But unfortunently I have a feeling that when I purchased the tree the wire had already been left on too long. Thank you though for reminding me to raise another issue

What do I do to remove the wire? Because it can't be healthy for it to have a wire inside its trunk.

As you can see here, it has already grown over the top...

I'm sorry that I ask so many questions!

Also thanks witchstreet, I hope it survives too!

coocarch · Post by **coocarch** » January 31st, 2012, 1:59 pm

I'd suggest just try to get it out with a pair of pliers, if you burst the bark open and make on open wound it'll heal, but if it really deep and it goes all the way around the trunk, you should get some cut paste applied to it so that it's protected from teh elements, I'm trying to use vaseline as a supplement for cut paste at the moment (I broke one of the main branches on my FIRST TREE

if it dies I'll be sad) but if anyone else has a better suggestion, by all means, do what you need to so you can keep it alive.
Coocarch

Liv · Post by **Liv** » January 31st, 2012, 2:11 pm

I hope your tree is okay

I will do what I can to get that wire out, but I should probably go out and purchase a set of proper bonsai tools.

Post by **Bougy Fan** » January 31st, 2012, 2:22 pm

Leave the wire in place Liv - it doesn't hurt the tree at all and you will make a mess if you try to take out the deep wire. The scars will take take forever to heal and you will never get rid of them. Just cut off the bit sticking out. Tree looks healthy enough - get it outside in a spot protected from the midday sun and winds. Repot in winnter when it's dormant. This is a deciduous tree so it will lose all it's leaves in winter - this is normal. Then you can put it in a proper bonsai pot or a grow box if you want to grow it on a bit.

Tony

Liv · Post by **Liv** » January 31st, 2012, 2:35 pm

Okay I won't remove the wire if it doesn't harm the tree. Currently it has been outside all day and has received some sun and it is now in the shade and out of the wind. I have also found a bonsai club in my area and will get in contact with them

Thanks

Andrew Legg · Post by **Andrew Legg** » January 31st, 2012, 5:32 pm

Hey Liv,

It's a pleasure. The tree has loads of character, but if I were you, I'd phone the place you bought it from and tell them that they are

for selling a tree with such bad wire bite! Tony is correct - leave the wire on, as removing it will do more damage than it is worth. There are many old examples of bonsai with wire inside their trunks. What I would do however is get a pair of electricians wire cutters (with a rounded point) and just cut away any wire that you can without damaging the bark too much. No point in having bits sticking out all over the show!

Have fun.

AusBonsai

First Bonsai - Trident Maple

First Bonsai - Trident Maple

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Re: First Bonsai - Trident Maple

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Re: First Bonsai - Trident Maple

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Re: First Bonsai - Trident Maple