toriki scraper from masakuni????

[Luke308]

Hi everyone, I am currently reading Masakuni Kawasumi II & Masakuni Kawasumi III's book " the secret techniques of Bonsai". So far it has been an informative read and I have picked up a few good pointers. My question is though has anyone used the Toriki scraper or anything similar for air-layering? This is what it looks like https://www.californiabonsai.com/?wpsc-p ... ering-tool Dario mentioned it recently in Crea8ivebonai's post viewtopic.php?f=9&t=10033&start=0&hilit=toriki I believe the pictures in his book as the nebari looks more natural where it joins the trunk compared to using a scalpel or razor which the nebari takes a lot longer to look as natural. Don't get me wrong, you can produce great nebari using the scalpel air-layer method, but I believe the toriki may save time in getting that natural nebari.

Has anyone used or heard of anyone using this method for ring-barking prior to air-layering? If so did you notice a difference?

I cant justify $70 for a tool like this, so I was wondering in how I could best make an alternative? Would jigsaw blades riveted together (approx 5 of them) work do you think? Or could I simply use a wood rasp or even a micro-plane grater?? https://www.google.com.au/search?q=grate ... 00&bih=710

I think the grater might be a good alternative? what do you think? I have until September to find an alternative anyway so put those thinking caps on

[chipper5]

Hi Luke0308,

I too have read this book and I like some of the ideas as well. I thought it made sense trying to air layer something using a rough tool, as it would make the roots come out at slightly different positions on the trunkline due to the rough cut in the cambium, as opposed to coming out dead straight as you get with a straight smooth cut.

I tried this technique and used a saw to scrape the bark off with a chinese elm I air layered last spring. I found the teeth were too big and coarse for what I was trying to acheive and really did tear up the bark. However your hacksaw idea may work as the teeth are alot smaller. Although that said I don't know if you'd need 5 stuck together- it's only the top cut that really matters as thats where the roots will come from- nothing below it. So perhaps try using the hacksaw blade instead of a knife/scalpel for the top cut and then use a knife/scalpel to do the rest of the bark scraping and removal below the rough cut. Then that should give you a rough (but not too rough) edge on the top cut and hopefully a more natural looking nebari when it takes root.

Chipper5

By the way the chinese elm layer did work, however it was cut off too early by a friend who mistook the sphagnum moss for roots. It had calloused over but didn't have any roots, so I scraped a little of the callouses, applied rooting hormone and then just treated it like a large hardwood cutting. It has shoots everywhere now and the roots are coming out through the bottom of the pot. As far as I could see when I had a look prior to planting it out the callouses were coming out from all areas around the cut so I think the toriki scraper idea works. I'll take a photo when I repot it and we can get an idea how the nebari will look.

[rdc]

Thanks for the info as I have been attempting and air layer on a Sesanquia Camellia since Sept 2011 and looked at it last weekend to find only the heel formed with no sign of roots, so will try the hormone and plant in pot .
Thanks Rod

[daiviet_nguyen]

$70 is a bit much for something that we are not very like to use so often.

Sounds as though it is similar to normal carpentry wood rasp. I would study a wood rasp substitution.

You can get a Microplane rasp for a lot less; for example http://www.carbatec.com.au/200mm-wood-rasp-set_c21436. Please let us know how you go.

Cheers.

[Brad75]

Hi Luke,

The best solution I can think of is to buy a wood rasp from a specialist tool shop. You can buy them between 10 and 22m wide and they will cut a neat path around a branch after you have used a knife to create your separation for layering. This is what we did for horticulture class in Year 12; it worked a treat.

Cheers,

Brad75.