Japanese Maple

[Saldo]

Hey hey, this is my first post on this forum. I'd love a bit of guidance or advise on a Japanese Maple I have. When i bought it last spring, it had 4 straight, hideous posts sticking out of a chop and at the time I did't really know what to look for in a stock maple. This is what it looked like after a trim about 3 months ago.





Since then I have removed two of the posts to try to create a more interesting trunk line.

















The two posts look unnatural so I'd like to remove one. A mate of mine did a sketch for me to see what it might look like should I remove one of the remaining two posts (you may recognise the drawing style ) and they are below.





He included a few of what it might look like in a year or two.





So what do people think about possibilities for her? When do you think the best time would be to make a serious cut?

Thanks in advance!
- Alex.

[Bretts]

We usually try to aviod a fork in the trunk like this, it is something abouthow nature is balanced but not symetrical and our eye catch that it is not natural.
But that does not mean it can't work. I like your drawings so muchthat I think you may just be able to make the composition work.

If not the other plan would be to get rid of one branch and continuewith a single trunk at this stage.

[Saldo]

If not the other plan would be to get rid of one branch and continuewith a single trunk at this stage.

Thanks for that Bretts. The drawings are great hey! They are actually of the tree after removal of one of the two remaining posts. Each post has a branch coming off it though which makes it a little confusing. Which cut (1 or 2 from the first drawing) do you think is the right one? Or any new cuts altogether?

Cheers,

Alex.

[Bretts]

Ah now I see. You are already getting rid of one branch. I would go with cut 1 leaving the most upright branches.

[Scott Roxburgh]

I like option 1 for the cut, and I always do large cuts on Japanese Maples in late-ish Autumn, after the leaves have turned and you have removed them.

[Ray M]

Hi Alex,
This is just another idea. This idea will depend on how big a base you are wanting to achieve on this tree.

I am going to assume you want to create a bigger base:
If this is your intention, remove the tree from the pot it is in and place it in a growing pot that is reasonable large.
Let the tree grow without pruning the top.
Remove any growth that appears under where a previous branch was removed from the trunk. This is where the scare is half way up the trunk.
After the base is developing into the size you require, cut the truck just under where the branch was removed.
The tree will develop many new shoots, and you will be able to choose the new leader you desire. This will also help create a taper into the tree.
All the above needs to be done at the right time of year.

Look forward to see how the tree develops.

Regards Ray

[Bretts]

Or you could continue with your plan which would be an excellent project for some one in thier first year of bonsai

[treeman]

Yes I like cut #1. and remember these can bleed badly. If you time your cut with root pruning---no problems. If not cut with sap withdrawl--when leaves have just about fallen as Scott said but NOT in winter!

[bodhidharma]

I would also be looking at removing that large root sooner rather than later as i do not think it will figure in this trees future.

[Saldo]

Thank you all for your feedback - it looks like cut 1 has a fair bit of strength (thanks Scott and Bretts)

After the base is developing into the size you require, cut the truck just under where the branch was removed.

I have thought about a cut below that scar but I was scared it would just die back and consume the tree. Is that not likely to happen Ray?

and remember these can bleed badly. If you time your cut with root pruning---no problems. If not cut with sap withdrawl--when leaves have just about fallen as Scott said but NOT in winter!

when timing a cut with root pruning, how many days after root pruning would you make a cut like this? Point taken re big cuts in maples in winter - I'll make this cut in april/may?

I would also be looking at removing that large root sooner rather than later as i do not think it will figure in this trees future.

Ahhhh I think you're right - It's not quite as bad as it looks in that first photo but it certainly is not adding to the tree. With respect to timing a cut on a root like this, is it best to do so in late Autumn as well as Treeman and Scott suggested?

Thanks again everyone!

[Ray M]

Hi Alex,

I have thought about a cut below that scar but I was scared it would just die back and consume the tree. Is that not likely to happen Ray?

As long as you do this at the right time of the year the tree will recover fine. Check with some of the fellows, who live in Brisbane, what is the right time of year to do major work on Japanese Maples.

Regards Ray

[bodhidharma]

I cannot give advice for Brisbane (somebody will chime in) but where i am last two weeks of August and early September i can do whatever i think the tree needs and it does not miss a beat.

[Scott Roxburgh]

On a tree like this, the scar isn't too bad, it adds character.

I would think that May/June would be the best time for you to cut the trunk in Brisbane.

Do not cut the roots at this time though, wait until repotting time (Aug/Sept???<check with locals) to do that.

[Saldo]

On a tree like this, the scar isn't too bad, it adds character.

Yeh i thought that as well though it does bulge outward just a little too much - how do the maples carve? do they heal up nicely? is it likely I would make a bit of a mess of it?

Judging from popular demand, I think cut #1 is the go and I'll make the cut in late May and re post some photos.

Thankyou all!