Which Oz native is suitable for a beginner to start with?

[mrbradleybradley]

This is something I have been thinking about recently. When I first entered this hobby, there were many newbie suggestions and each one was an exotic species.

[FlyBri]

Gday Mr Bradley!

In order of ease of care (repotting, watering, etc), I'd recommend:

> Ficus rubignosa (Port Jackson Fig): Likes water, hates frost. Small leaves, easily wired, responds well to pruning.

> Lilly Pillies (Acmena, Syzygium, et al): As for Figs (above)

> Callistemon species: Tolerates most conditions. Older wood is difficult to bend with wiring.

>Melaleuca species: As for Callistemons (above)

>She-Oaks (Casuarina, Allocasuarina): Tolerates most conditions. Wiring can be tricky until you learn the ropes.

That's an 'off the top of my head' guide. I hope it helps.

Fly.

[Pup]

Not an easy question to answer Bradley, Where in this wonderful country do you live what natives other than gum trees grow in your area!!.

I will try though as you can see my favorite species is Melaleucas. Of the over 200 and and counting species. There are many that are suitable for the beginner with a modicum of knowledge. One that is readily available is M.bracteata and the Xs of it like Golden gem revolution gold and green.
Then Linarifolia is hardy but you must keep it in check otherwise it will get very leggy, so constant pinching is in order. There are many more but as I said where you live will be the most crucial factor as most love water. They thrive it the same conditions as Azaleas.
The next is also very good Casuarina and its various species.
Vita and Dorothy Koreshoffs Book
Bonsai with Australian plants is a must if you are serious. I credit most of my knowledge on natives in the beginning to this book . I hope this helps in some way to putting you on the path to our Natives. Pup

[mrbradleybradley]

Let me be a pain for a minute. A beginner would want a tree that produces something approximating an immediate result without much of a skill level. I have seen many a beginner hack into a juniper and come away with something resembling a good bonsai to the non-hobbiest. An Oz native that allows that to happen is what I intended in my question. I believe that that is what the beginner seeks in their first few attempts.

[anttal63]

for my money in the beginning; sheoak and coastal banksia.

[FlyBri]

Let me be a pain for a minute. A beginner would want a tree that produces something approximating an immediate result without much of a skill level. I have seen many a beginner hack into a juniper and come away with something resembling a good bonsai to the non-hobbiest. An Oz native that allows that to happen is what I intended in my question. I believe that that is what the beginner seeks in their first few attempts.

Gday again MrBB!

Thanks for the clarification. Most of the plants listed thus far could potentially be turned into instant Bonsai, depending on the conditions in which they've grown. Unfortunately, it seems that regular nurseries prefer to grown many Oz native trees and shrubs in such close proximity to one another that trunks tend to be bolt upright with little in the way of movement or low branching to work with. There are always exceptions, of course.

Given the restrictions of common nursery material, I would go for young She-Oaks first, as even small specimens often have a lot of branches to work with, and with some care they can be bent quite extremely. The same could be said for certain species of Melaleuca. Of course, there is always the chance that the beginner will come across a shrubby Lilly Pilly or Callistemon that could be hacked into for an immediate result, but I believe you're looking for trees that are commonly/readily available.

Thanks and good luck!

Fly.

PS: I've been playing around with some 600mm tall Allocasuarina torulosa over the past weeks and will post a photo here once the sun comes up.

[anttal63]

too right fly! on the money there. i dont call this bonsai but my daughter and i produced this in a week with tube stock. callistamon captain cook. BUT this specie will not forgive if you forget to water. may not die but you will lose alot of developement.
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1029

[FlyBri]

PS: I've been playing around with some 600mm tall Allocasuarina torulosa over the past weeks and will post a photo here once the sun comes up.

...and the sun has come up (sort of)...

A_Torulosa_Apr_09_01.jpg

A_Torulosa_Apr_09_02.jpg

This particular tree was dead straight when I bought it. I would not consider my work here to be 'Bonsai' as much as an experiment in extreme bending of a She-Oak. That said, you can imagine that with a little more time and wire, this could be considered to be a decent result of the initial styling of nursery stock. (During the bending process, I snapped the trunk a number of times with no apparent ill-effects. The rapid growth of the specimen should allow the breaks to heal readily.)

Thanks.

Fly.

[mrbradleybradley]

Let me be a pain for a minute. A beginner would want a tree that produces something approximating an immediate result without much of a skill level. I have seen many a beginner hack into a juniper and come away with something resembling a good bonsai to the non-hobbiest. An Oz native that allows that to happen is what I intended in my question. I believe that that is what the beginner seeks in their first few attempts.

Gday again MrBB!

Thanks for the clarification. Most of the plants listed thus far could potentially be turned into instant Bonsai, depending on the conditions in which they've grown. Unfortunately, it seems that regular nurseries prefer to grown many Oz native trees and shrubs in such close proximity to one another that trunks tend to be bolt upright with little in the way of movement or low branching to work with. There are always exceptions, of course.

Given the restrictions of common nursery material, I would go for young She-Oaks first, as even small specimens often have a lot of branches to work with, and with some care they can be bent quite extremely. The same could be said for certain species of Melaleuca. Of course, there is always the chance that the beginner will come across a shrubby Lilly Pilly or Callistemon that could be hacked into for an immediate result, but I believe you're looking for trees that are commonly/readily available.

Thanks and good luck!

Fly.

PS: I've been playing around with some 600mm tall Allocasuarina torulosa over the past weeks and will post a photo here once the sun comes up.

Thanks Mate

I propagate alot of plants from either cuttings or seed so the commercial nursery stock are not an issue

[anttal63]

fly lookn good. just 2 things; bigger wire and you'll get bigger bends. watch the frost.

[Kunzea]

Hi anttal63

I'm intrigued by your comment for flybri's Allocasuarina torulosa 'watch the frost'. I see that you are from 'Melbourne', though that covers quite a lot of possible topographic variation and thus susceptibility to frost. Here in the ACT, I've grown A. t. for decades and they freeze solid at least once a year, often many times. But I've never seen any damage to the plant from frost.

Can you provide any more information about why you recommend caution about frost with this species?
Kunzea

[marleeney]

Cany anyone tell me about the baeckea species I think these are natives. I love them when they flower but wonder if they are hard to grow and keep
Many thanks
Marleeney

[Pup]

I have found the Baekea ( babingtonia ) virgata to be very forgiving ( the dwarf variety I believe mine is ) they shoot back well after pruning the timing for root pruning is not crucial as long as it is warm. After flowering cut back as you would a bottle brush as the flower on new wood.

Bradley you can get what you want from Bottlebrush if you find one heavy enough12 to 18 months. Or 6 months for Shohin, cutting 25mms.
Pup

[anttal63]

Hi anttal63

I'm intrigued by your comment for flybri's Allocasuarina torulosa 'watch the frost'. I see that you are from 'Melbourne', though that covers quite a lot of possible topographic variation and thus susceptibility to frost. Here in the ACT, I've grown A. t. for decades and they freeze solid at least once a year, often many times. But I've never seen any damage to the plant from frost.

Can you provide any more information about why you recommend caution about frost with this species?
Kunzea

hi kunzea, are you talking in the ground or potted? each year when frost has come while developing in poly box's i have experience burn to the ends of the foliage not damage as such. however ive never noticed on trees planted in the ground around here. although what you are saying has intigued me to looking at something else as the reason perhaps.

[marleeney]

Thank you Pup I will have a look into this one. I saw one in a nursery with white flowers and though it a very nice variety.
Many thanks
Marleeney