What are you working on?

[kitoi]

I wanted to give Paul's oval technique a try again, but with a twist or should I say a crack. I've combined the thrown oval wall with my crack pot technique. Cut it from bat this morning, attached to the slab, feet inside to dry at the same rate and ready to be bagged.


Have a few accent pot trials, crawl glaze tests, crack pots and a large slabbed oval in a ^5 firing also this morning.

Picked up some paperclay yesterday, will be doing some slab and thrown pots today, also trimming the feet on this black beauty(color after firing).

[kitoi]

As requested by asus I put together a photo step-by step of shaping a crackpot. Demo is using the sand technique, easily obtained and simple to do. Also won't ruin your bats if you forget to clean up after yourself. I'll add descriptions to the photos later.

http://plants-pottery-photo.blogspot.com/

Questions?

Oh, I've used this same technique on a banding wheel also to make accent pots so no expensive equipment is needed. The trials are in the kiln.

[anttal63]

fantastic ketoi, thanks for sharing i cant wait to try it. once i get the basics down pat.

[ketutg]

nice blog you have there.. i like the lava style pots a lot

[kitoi]

Added text to the photos.

fantastic ketoi, thanks for sharing i cant wait to try it. once i get the basics down pat.

Makes it a little easier if got a some basic skill but what you got to loose? Just do it!!
Photos give you an idea what's going on but there's nothing like getting your hands dirty.

nice blog you have there.. i like the lava style pots a lot

Glad you like it! Purchased more red clay yesterday now I got to get busy!

[Bretts]

It is great to see how you did this on the wheel. I haven't tried it on the wheel yet but it is on the list.
Pol has been making some crack pots by adding sand to the clay and then just bashing out a shape like a big pinch pot. It makes a nice effect but I am still trying to figure a way of doing a formal crack pot.
I have found it fairly easy if I attach the base after I have formed and stretched the rim but this is ruined some what when the base does not have the same effect. Then you have the problem of the base being too small if you attach the base before stretching. Any ideas for me anyone?
Your crack pot looks great ketoi. I see you have done what I am talking of avoiding ketoi yet your pot looks great. I have tried to cover up the lack of cracking in the base with pattern work but it may be better to just accept it like you have? The challenge for me now is to work out how to make a round edge rectangular pot with cracks all the way down.

[kitoi]

Brett,
what you could try is make the base thick, then trim to leave an edge or rim and some some sand and stretch to match the pot. What do you mean by "more formal"?

http://plants-pottery-photo.blogspot.co ... icate.html

Using the sodium silicate I was able to get the foot(base) to crack

[mudlarkpottery]

Great viewing Ketoi (or is it Kitoi?). You're getting some lovely shapes with your work. Ball clay or even china clay instead of the sand will give a better cracking of the surface if you want to try that.
If you are interested in unusual succulents, look out for a Phytolacca diocea, it's a tree but will grow in a pot happily - extremely drought tolerant and fast growing.
Keep up the good work. Penny.

[Bretts]

I will post some pictures and explanations very soon to explain better. I am not sure I understand your suggestion. Do you mean to make the base crack and then attach to the rim?
The issue then would be the join spoiling the crack effect. Maybe I miss understand? The only possible solution I came up with was a base that sat inside the rim. Is there a sound way of accomplishing this? The first ones I did are like that and should be out of the bisque firing by Tuesday so I will see if they made it.

When I say formal I am referring to a comparison with Pots that my mate Pol makes. He loves the irregular rim height and such. I laugh when it takes me 10 minutes (it takes him about 6 minutes :roll ) to make a pot that he states is my best ever.( Then I try to make the top level and ruin it for him. I too can like the informal rim but I want to be able to make a refined pot first.
I believe the pinnacle of this will be a round corner rectangle with the crack effect continuing all the way to the base. There are some great examples from Horst's collection.

[anttal63]

Makes it a little easier if got a some basic skill but what you got to loose? Just do it!!
Photos give you an idea what's going on but there's nothing like getting your hands dirty.

thats my thinking too thanks ketoi ketoi can you tell me, is it a particular kind of sand you use?

[kitoi]

Thanks Penny,
I'll try ball clay later this morning. It started off as ketoi, then I showed my mom and she said I spelled it wrong. So now its kitoi, tried to change it here and it won't let me.

Had a large Phytolacca until the freeze of 2007, killed it. Need to get another one of these days.

Brett,
Pictures would be great!

Its hard to describe cracking the base, I'll make one and take some photos

ant,
I used construction sand because I had some in the garage, but you can use silica, sandblasting or play box sand

[kitoi]

Ball clay technique...with a twist...off the bat
http://plants-pottery-photo.blogspot.co ... nique.html

[mudlarkpottery]

Good one, Kitoi. I found that you get better cracking with the dry clay than sand. To get it on the pot, put some in your hand and pat it onto the sides. The uneven layering will add to the effect.
Shame about your tree - they are so interesting. Have you tried a Chorisia? I love the trunk.
Penny.

[mudlarkpottery]

Antonio, don't use Silica. It's carcinogenic. The fine dust stays in your lungs. The result is the same as asbestosis. Be careful when using the dry clay, too as it's a silica compound. When I'm working with dry clay, I have a small spray bottle of water to use often to settle the fine dust and wet mop or sponge when finished.
Penny.

[kitoi]

So far I like the sand and silicate, I prefer the deep fissures over the surface cracks. Will try the ball on some softer clay and see how it turns out.

I have 2 Chorisia, one has many large thorns. Trunks is about 10cm wide and 45cm tall, I'm working on bringing the height down.