Trident Maple needs work

[Grant Bowie]

Here is a field grown Trident Maple out of the ground for about 5 years and in need of some work; although I am unlikely to do anything till August. Interested to hear your thoughts,suggestions and comments.

It should color very well and get roughish bark as it was a seedling from a special Trident maple out at Hay, NSW.

Trident Maple with height comparison (can of Confidor).JPG

Current Front.JPG

45 degrees.JPG

90 degrees.JPG

135 Degrees.JPG

180 degrees.JPG

225 degrees.JPG

270 degrees.JPG

315 degrees.JPG

Base current front.JPG

Base 90 degrees.JPG

Base 180 degrees.JPG

Base 270 degrees.JPG

Poor base area approx 225 degrees.JPG

[Asus101]

I'll leave other parts to others to comment on, but would you allow the top leader to grow out further so you can get a smoother transition on the cut area?
Even with the bad rootage, it has the feeling of age, its also got that gnarly haunted forest feel... Just needs a deep Uro to finish the look.

[Grant Bowie]

I'll leave other parts to others to comment on, but would you allow the top leader to grow out further so you can get a smoother transition on the cut area?
Even with the bad rootage, it has the feeling of age, its also got that gnarly haunted forest feel... Just needs a deep Uro to finish the look.

The top portion has some vestigal wire marks so growing it out/thicker would be a good idea. Then I could cut back hard at a later time.

There was a large portion removed 5 years ago from the left hand side at 90 degrees and it has healed over very well.

[Asus101]

The top portion has some vestigal wire marks so growing it out/thicker would be a good idea. Then I could cut back hard at a later time.

There was a large portion removed 5 years ago from the left hand side at 90 degrees and it has healed over very well.

I was thinking you might grow it on further because of those wire marks.

[Grant Bowie]

The top portion has some vestigal wire marks so growing it out/thicker would be a good idea. Then I could cut back hard at a later time.

There was a large portion removed 5 years ago from the left hand side at 90 degrees and it has healed over very well.

I was thinking you might grow it on further because of those wire marks.

Certainly makes sense to get the basics sorted at this stage of its life, rather than trying to do it later when it would be just about impossible.

It was originally wired while in a 4"/100mm pot and then planted into the groud once the wire was removed after a few months. In the ground it grew really well as it was on a slight mound and was irrigated from run off from my nursery.All up it would be less than 10 years old.

[Bretts]

Thats an interesting project Grant. I may choose a front that is at about 40 deg or maybe 20 some where there. I also think that 180 is workable.

I would give serious consideration to using 225 with a ground layer(major root work). Then again I might even go with the one you have chosen it has great movement and muscling.
I would like to hear what your thoughts are on the healing of the upper scar. I have a hornbeam of similar movement and have run into trouble with the new leader. Your thoughts whould be sure to help me.
Thanks

[Grant Bowie]

Thats an interesting project Grant. I may choose a front that is at about 40 deg or maybe 20 some where there. I also think that 180 is workable.

I would give serious consideration to using 225 with a ground layer(major root work). Then again I might even go with the one you have chosen it has great movement and muscling.
I would like to hear what your thoughts are on the healing of the upper scar. I have a hornbeam of similar movement and have run into trouble with the new leader. Your thoughts whould be sure to help me.
Thanks

On my tree the upper scar will heal OK because it has lots of branches around and above the scar and when I grow out the apex it will be vigorous and heal over. At a later stage I can remove the healing branches around the then healed over scar. Then I will have a few smaller scars to contend with and can carve or whatever then. Or it could be made into a large Uro; the wood of trident is hard and would perform OK.

Hornbeam will be slower to heal over so get as much growth as you can going through the apex. Put it back into the ground if you have to.I have an American hornbeam that has been very slow to heal. It needs a new root sytem layered on plus major growing on of apex as does yours.

The current front was chosen as it shows the greatest root and base flair. The apex is coming from the back of the tree so anything might happen in a few years time

[Jow]

Hey Grant,

I have had a lot of success grafting new roots on tridents, infact i do it every year even to those trees with good nebari. I both thread and approach graft seedlings of varying thicknesses up to around finger thickness. That would be the first thing i would be doing, especially as repotting time is comming up.... After 2 or 3 years grafting and general root work the nebari could be totally filled in and beginning to fuse.

i like the trunk and i am sure you will have no trouble getting a good tree out of it...

[Leigh Taafe]

There is no hope for your tree Grant, I would be happy to take it off your hands, just to relieve you.

Cheers,
Leigh.

[daiviet_nguyen]

Hi,

Just my own two cents. Please disregard at will.

I am a bit uneasy about new leader. The entire movement of the
body-line looks magnificent at 225 degree. At "Current Front",
135, 180, 270, 315 the new leader looks a bit trying -- in the
sense that it arches out a bit too much.

If it were mine, taking "Current Front", I would attempt to
make it a bit more vertical. Althought it might be too hard
at this age.

I understand that at 225 it lacks surface roots, but the
body-line is most attractive.

Best regards.

[Grant Bowie]

Hi,

Just my own two cents. Please disregard at will.

I am a bit uneasy about new leader. The entire movement of the
body-line looks magnificent at 225 degree. At "Current Front",
135, 180, 270, 315 the new leader looks a bit trying -- in the
sense that it arches out a bit too much.

If it were mine, taking "Current Front", I would attempt to
make it a bit more vertical. Althought it might be too hard
at this age.

I understand that at 225 it lacks surface roots, but the
body-line is most attractive.

Best regards.

What about 45 degrees?

[Grant Bowie]

There is no hope for your tree Grant, I would be happy to take it off your hands, just to relieve you.

Cheers,
Leigh.

Sorry Leigh, this one I am keeping. I wouldn't wan't to burden you with any more of my trees.

[Asus101]

There is no hope for your tree Grant, I would be happy to take it off your hands, just to relieve you.

Cheers,
Leigh.

YOu would soil your collection with that? He should send it too me to where it would feel at home with the other uglies.

[Grant Bowie]

Hey Grant,

I have had a lot of success grafting new roots on tridents, infact i do it every year even to those trees with good nebari. I both thread and approach graft seedlings of varying thicknesses up to around finger thickness. That would be the first thing i would be doing, especially as repotting time is comming up.... After 2 or 3 years grafting and general root work the nebari could be totally filled in and beginning to fuse.

i like the trunk and i am sure you will have no trouble getting a good tree out of it...

Good point about root grafting.

Ric Roberts in Sydney grafts roots onto Trident of great thickness; up to 1'/25mm or even thicker. We called him "Tricky Ricky". He will be giving an all day demo at Bonsai By the Harbour this year.

[daiviet_nguyen]

Hi,

At 45 I feel that the new leader is obscured by the top
branch that is being wired down. They are siblings of
the same age, and I feel that the top branch still need
to be slowed down a bit, and possibly pull down a bit too?

Best regards.