Developing branches.

[phillicondor]

Hi all. Just wondering if anyone could post some progression of branch development (figs lilly pillys and juniper are what I'm playing with mostly). I just would like to see how it's done and what the results are at different stages. I feel I'm leaving too many branches on my plants because they look cool even if they aren't in the right spot. On a couple of my juniper I have shoots on the trunk. I assume it will be possible to develop these into a branch but how long would that take? I'm sure I could be clearer but I'll leave it at that and anticipate ur helpful responses and requests for clarity. Cheers phillo.

[shibui]

Sometimes those small shoots grow quite fast, other times they are slow. I guess it depends on what other shoots are competing with them. i think you should look at 5+ years to develop a branch.

I don't think i have any photos for a progression but have just taken step by step pics of my winter pruning which may help. just need time to load them. One important thing I think is always remove longer internodes, even if you are trying to extend a branch. nothing looks worse than a nice branch with bare patches along the length.

Too many branches will slow development of the ones you should have by competing for light and nutrients. I know how hard it is to remove them but results are far better when you thin early. Scars are also smaller so heal quicker.

One saying I keep coming back to is: 'No candles or chandeliers and leave room for the birds and butterflies' Meaning remove all vertical shoots and hanging shoots and thin branches so there is plenty of space between.

[phillicondor]

Thanks shibui. I think that's one of my problems. Leaving too many branches on my plants. So I guess the msg is prune harder. I suppose I'll get the knack of it. I know I'm already taking off more then I did on my first few plants and I've got plenty of plants to practice on. I bought a few juniper pyramidalis? Last year that have become my practice plants but they have just been used for shari practice so I'll wait til it heats up and torture them again. Looking forward to seeing those pics. Cheers phillo

[Andrew Legg]

Check this progression Phillo: viewtopic.php?f=140&t=9055

It's an elm of mine grown from a trunk. I'll be updating the branch progressions in the next month when I do my winter pruning again.

I believe in the following formula for good deciduous branches.

1. Let the branch grow out a bit.
2. Cut back to one bud from the previous fork.
3. Allow to grow out again, but remove one of the new branches of a pair.
4. Allow to grow out again.
5. Cut back to one bud from the new growth.
6. Allow to grow out again, but this time two branches.

Etc etc.

I think we make the mistake of allowing straight sections between forking growth instead of taking a little longer and getting more natural movement into the branch.

Cheers,

Andrew

[Elmar]

I believe in the following formula for good deciduous branches.

1. Let the branch grow out a bit.
2. Cut back to one bud from the previous fork.
3. Allow to grow out again, but remove one of the new branches of a pair.
4. Allow to grow out again.
5. Cut back to one bud from the new growth.
6. Allow to grow out again, but this time two branches.

Would this not also work for none-deciduous trees? just the timing is different ...?!

... between forking ...

oh boy, its too early to be on here ...

[Pearcy001]

Would this not also work for none-deciduous trees? just the timing is different ...?!

Anything that responds to the clip and grow method would be the same I'm guessing.

Cheers,
Pearcy.

[MoGanic]

Would this not also work for none-deciduous trees? just the timing is different ...?!

Anything that responds to the clip and grow method would be the same I'm guessing.

Cheers,
Pearcy.

It would work for most broadleaf evergreens, but definitely not coniferous evergreens - which are a whole different ball game.

Cheers,
Mo


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[Neli]

There are several methods to develop branches and for me the variety needs to be considered .
The one I use mostly is grow and fatten a branch after wiring it, until more than half the desired thickness, and cut back hard for taper and movement.And repeat.
trees with long internodes I try to develop like Andrew or create short internodes for a distance before letting them fatten.
Another method used is to create a longer branch but somewhat shorter than the final length, with secondary branches and use sacrifice branches to create taper. It is faster but not as good as the first one.
Junipers are initially similar in forming the bones of the pad, but you need to consider the fact that you have to have foliage at the end when cutting back and dont over cut or pinch them, for they depend on their foliage for survival.
Maybe this can help you some how but I am not finished yet
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 871&type=1
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 868&type=1
I am sure here are many better articles too.

[phillicondor]

Thanks all. Just read through those posts neli. Much appreciated. Lots of info and it's in my bookmarks. I've got a few figs that I can play with but can u suggest any other species that develop branches quickly. I've got a bouganvillea that I dug up last year that seems to grow all the time that I'll play with but I'm about to start some holidays so I wanna buy some cheap nursery plant to work on while I'm off. Or I might just prune some branches in the garden and see what happens.

[Neli]

Plenty of good info here but maybe this can help you:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 871&type=1