the problem i see with this tree is that the trunk is fairly straight up until the point where all the branches start, which is a fairly abrupt angle with some nasty scars and what looks like some reverse taper happening there.
no im no plum expert, but at the right time i would first get that into a bigger pot and give it a chop lower down, and trainer a new leader to try and get some taper, fairly textbook stuff really. You might not want to do that at the same time though.
the species as a whole is good for bonsai, you just need to get some good bones about this tree, IMO this tree at the moment has a few issues that i dont think are fixable and usable as a bonsai.... YET. A few years hard training to get some taper and character about the tree with some good branch placement and i recon you could have anice little tree.
Hi Velvet, you're first problem is that the tree is grafted. So, unless you are prepared to do an airlayer, you have a problem. The rootstock could be from anything.
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If you air layer it off above the graft it most likly wont be a dwarf any more, I'm pretty sure its grafted to a dwarfing root stock, I have a friend with a dwarf cherry blossum, its the same.
Is it grafted at "elbow" ?
If so then you could bring one of the upper branches down and do a thread graft thru there. Once that takes then you will have to sort out roots, but I would lean it over to the right so the trunk is about 20 deg from the vertical, with the first new branch at the bend.
this out the top growth and pickone of the shoot to be next Trunk section. Chop and regrow a new apex.
Make a nice little informal upright with masses of pink flowers
It is grafted (budded) at the point where the branches come from. If you really like it , you should air layer immediately below that graft (still in the thick section of the trunk). You will still have the foliage and branches as the pink flowering dwarf Prunus persica and the roots resulting from that point will still be the dwarfing root stock. I had a similar tree a few years ago. It is now in a pot by the door looking fabulous, but is NOT a bonsai. I did not think it was worth the effort in the case of my tree. That is a choice you will need to make for yours, though if you want to bonsai it, I suggest you put the air layer on as soon as it shoots out. You will save a year of time before it reaches it's potential.
i would airlayer it just above the graft. you will get a better tree without is dwarfing. dwarfing causes the branches to be quite coarse and stiff. and it will be slow growing. If you layer it and put it in the ground or a growth box it will grow quite quickly and you will be able to develop nicer, more delicate ramification
i would airlayer it just above the graft. you will get a better tree without is dwarfing. dwarfing causes the branches to be quite coarse and stiff. and it will be slow growing. If you layer it and put it in the ground or a growth box it will grow quite quickly and you will be able to develop nicer, more delicate ramification
I really like these little fruit trees and have been very tempted....
I have similar apples, Maypole variety that are approaching 15yrs old. They have a similar short internode & coarse branched structure to your peach. They dont make huge amounts of growth & thicken slowly..Scars heal even slower.
I think the issue will be the same, getting it to ramify and getting some movement into the lower trunk & branching. It really needs a decade of ground growing or in a big grow pot. Let it get some girth to match the eventual size then cut back hard to a basic frame & start to build ramification.
Last edited by MattA on September 15th, 2011, 12:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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