1st attempt at a group: Sheoak

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Damian79
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1st attempt at a group: Sheoak

Post by Damian79 »

Hi Guys
I got these 5 Corkey Sheoaks from the local nursery for $3 each and thought I would try a group planting.
group1.jpg
I have never tried this as yet so I thought I would use one of my own hand made pots that I have, as I havent used one of them yet either, ( One that didnt quite work Out how I wanted)
group2.jpg
so here are a few pick of my first attempt.
group3.jpg
group4.jpg
group5.jpg
group6.jpg
group7.jpg
group8.jpg
I kinda got carried away and forgot to get some pics of the process :whistle: Sorry :palm:
I have nooo idea if these will survive or not :mrgreen: :fc:
ANY coments or advise, good or bad would be greatfully received.
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Last edited by Damian79 on January 27th, 2014, 1:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 1st attempt at a group: Sheoak

Post by lackhand »

The spacing looks a bit even to me, but it's hard to tell from the photos. I'm excited to see how this one develops though.

I wish I could grab stick like that for $3. I've been hunting for she-oak but I can barely find it up here.
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Re: 1st attempt at a group: Sheoak

Post by Elmar »

Hey Damo,
I'm excited to see Sheoks as we have them growing on the side of the road here. So I've been thinking of thanking cuttings/ Airlayering to get some potential trees. As far as your grouping goes, it always takes the first step in order to grow yourself! I must agree with LH in that it looks a little even from the pics you've put up.
I always thought that a group planting was to tell a story while being pleasing to the eye. Now I don't know if you've just put it together and that this is a pic before the next stage, but I don't quite see the story as yet. Hoping to see this grow!


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Re: 1st attempt at a group: Sheoak

Post by kcpoole »

Mabe at next repot, group them more as group of 3 and then the other 2 a little remote.

I have one too ( not corky park tho), but on a flat tray. Several died when potted them up but I have some more of them from the same batch of seed to replace them.
Ran out of time this week :lost:

Keep them weel watered and amybe on a damp tray if you can. Seasol is very good too.

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Re: 1st attempt at a group: Sheoak

Post by raewynk »

Agree with most of the others comments, but a tip that I was told years ago if you plant and suspect that you might lose one of two , try a milk 2lt container with a bit of milk 1 -2 table spoons full and about 500 ml water shake it really well and pour over the root base before you do first seasol treatment. It works not saying you won't lose any but the milk with the protein/calcium content turns to fertiliser for the plant not quite sure of the chemical content, but I have used it on all plants for years, works a treat for establishing them, also great for ferns on a monthly feed. :imo: :tu2:
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Re: 1st attempt at a group: Sheoak

Post by Elmar »

Interesting ... Any milk or just fresh milk?


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Re: 1st attempt at a group: Sheoak

Post by raewynk »

I have used fresh milk and the long life milk from coles. Another that I remembered is that it is the organism in the milk culture that becomes the fertiliser if that makes any sense to anyone who has done chemistry. Also I have found it on a few of the gardening websites.
http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden- ... ilizer.htm

:tu: :tu2:
Last edited by raewynk on January 28th, 2014, 12:04 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: 1st attempt at a group: Sheoak

Post by Rory »

I always found with torulosa, that you should really trim the foliage a lot if you are cutting back the roots. It tends to sometimes kill the tree all the way back to the base if you don't, and it then produces offshoots from the base, but then you lose all the nice thickness at the start as it begins to start all over again. Litoralis is the worst at suffering this fate, but cunninghamiana and glauca doesn't tend to have this problem as much as torulosa or litoralis.

Those are some relatively massive rocks you got in that pot. Looks quite rough and ragged, but i guess so is this species.

Personally, I find they are best not transplanted or worked on until they are a bit older, because they experience severe die back when root pruned at an early stage. Judging from the seedlings, I would say they are a bit over a year or two old. I generally start work on the roots at about 3 years with this species, so it has had a chance to develop and set in. Having said that though, at least if they survive, you will have the makings of hardy survivors. Remember, even if the foliage turns brown and shrivels, torulosa can lie dormant for many many months before they finally shoot back from recovery. Make sure the drainage is free, as they don't like being bogged down at all. Only cunninghamiana and glauca can survive periods of inundation. When you repot as they get older, take care of the bark, it becomes beautiful, but is quite delicate. I recommend not wiring, and using anchoring to style the tree instead.

Where we live, we have thousands and thousands of them growing, and they always have a mother or father, then all the little babies surrounding them. So while yours looks a little ordered I will agree, it can look a lot better if you have a larger one next time you repot, and have these others appearing like juveniles growing around the parent. Just a thought.

Good luck with this though. I have quite a lot of these growing too, and plan on doing a group planting later on as well.
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Re: 1st attempt at a group: Sheoak

Post by Damian79 »

Thanks Bonsaibuddyman
Would you suggest I trim them down a bit now? If so how much?
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Re: 1st attempt at a group: Sheoak

Post by Rory »

Damian79 wrote:Thanks Bonsaibuddyman
Would you suggest I trim them down a bit now? If so how much?
Damo
So sorry about the late reply Damo. Yes, I would cut back at least 1/3 of the seedlings asap. In other words, cut about half of the green foliage off, or in newbie terms, if the entire seedling is say 20cm tall, you could maybe cut it off at about 13cm in height from the base. Otherwise especially in summer, and on hot days, you will find that seedlings will struggle to transport water from massively reduced roots to supply that much foliage with water, and will shock the seedling. They are usually quite amazing at what they can survive, but remember, casuaurina can be thirsty, so just make sure they don't get bone dry, but don't water when the soil is still damp.
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Re: 1st attempt at a group: Sheoak

Post by Damian79 »

Thanks buddy
I took the risk and cut roughly a third off the top anyway :fc:
Hopefully they pull through
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Re: 1st attempt at a group: Sheoak

Post by raewynk »

keep the pictures coming when you can I am certainly still learning as I am sure that most of us are.
Look forward to seeing the results.

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Re: 1st attempt at a group: Sheoak

Post by Rory »

Hi Damien....

How are your little torulosas going?
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Re: 1st attempt at a group: Sheoak

Post by Damian79 »

Hi Guys
It's been a Loooong time between drinks I know.
Unfortunately only one of these guys survived the ordeal.
a worth while lesson.
Cheers.
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Re: 1st attempt at a group: Sheoak

Post by Rory »

No worries, I would suggest trying again. For your 2nd attempt, see if you can purchase seedlings which have more branches starting down lower at the bases, and try not trimming the roots much at all, and pot the project up in late August. Trim the foliage during the repot, but only do it once. It is a lovely species to try, so don't give up. You could trial the project with more advanced stock,.... or perhaps slip pot the same size seedlings into a slightly larger pot and wait till they are a bit more advanced and then attempt another group planting next year. But that requires a lot more patience.

Alternatively, if you don't want that instant forest look, then get a deeper pot, and just basically slip pot all the seedlings into a larger pot, so there will not be any severe disturbance of the roots. Just prod the edges a little to encourage the roots to grow out and not back inwards. Even though you will have a deep pot, once the group setting takes shape, then you can start to reduce the roots in time. Besides, this will encourage thickening of the base rather than instantly putting them into a shallow pot. You can even just use a styrafoam (not sure of the spelling on that one) container, until they have really settled in and thickened up. With group plantings, remember to rotate the pot once in a while, to distribute the sun exposure all around.

However, if you want that instant look of a forest and are worried about root trimming or pruning, try cunninghamiana or glauca. They are much hardier and will tolerate more brutality. When I repot Littoralis or Torulosa, generally I will cut back less of the foliage/roots than I would with cunninghamiana or glauca. But everyone has their :2c:

This was just a group planting of Torulosas that I started to test sun level exposure to this species Torulosa. It was slapped together very quickly on the 23rd March this year just to see how they hold up. In preparation for the pot, I have a washing bucket full of water, and take the seedlings out of the packets, then dunk them all into the water, then let them sit in the water for about 30 minutes. This does 2 things... it keeps the roots moist while you are repotting them up, and it makes the soil easier to gently pull apart and get the roots exposed so it isn't so curled into itself and you aren't yanking on the roots too hard so that it dies. Then one by one, I take each out of the bucket, and it takes about 10 minutes for each one, to slowly but surely, pull out the old soil, ..... however, I generally do not touch 3 or 4 cm or so at the top of the root ball, where the base is. If it looks like it has thick feeder roots at the top, then I might get a little eager and cut about 1/3 off the bottom of the soil section. Then, I just place each one into a pot, (make sure there is already soil in the pot so the roots are well covered, and repeat each one until you have them all in the pot. Then fill your pot up with soil. Then slowly with, say a hand water sprayer, and put it on halfway between mist and jet, then spray this right near the surface to ensure the soil doesn't have large air pockets that will collapse over the next few weeks. You basically want to try and get all the seedlings in firm, so they aren't going to be blown over in wind, or when being watered. Use a well draining soil mix, and there you have it.

You can see from the pic, that they have all shot out new growth since then. They are only watered when almost dry, and get probably 3-4 hours of filtered/full sun a day. They would prefer more sun if I could offer it though.

Image
Last edited by Rory on June 8th, 2014, 12:25 am, edited 2 times in total.
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