Fig Advice

[Webos]

Just got a new, very raw fig. no idea of what variety it is but it is a common pot plant-type fig. Just wondering if people might be able to give me advice on when to work on figs...removal of heavy branches, wiring, defoliating, etc. I'm in Vic.

Thanks

Webos

[astroboy76]

if u search for the word fig u will find some awesome posts and threads from some of the ausbonsai members. anough to get u on ur way and more

[kcpoole]

Figs should be worked ion thru our warmer months.
Start when the overnight temps get above 16-18 Deg and get it recuperation done before is gets below these temps.
For me in Sydney, that meas start after mid October, and finish all work by mid march to give at least 1 month growth before the overnight cold of autumn
I will wire and prune in Summer as it does not need to be on very long

Ken

[Webos]

Thanks Ken...So right now should be perfect timing for repotting and heavy pruning?

[shibui]

Webos,
We hold our annual fig workshop at Albury/Wodonga bonsai every Jan (just last week) as this is a great time for working on figs here. Repotting, defoliating, pruning - all done during warmer weather as KC says. Anytime from Nov to Feb. Later in Autumn the trees grow back very slowly.

Common potplant fig could be Ficus elastica (rubber plant) with huge leaves but very hardy or if it has small leaves maybe weeping fig(?) - my experience not very hardy.

[Glenda]

In North Queensland we work on our figs all year round - the growth here never stops, just slows down a little for about 2 weeks in mid winter.

Glenda

[Matthew]

Webos

coming from central queensland to ne vic my figs have had a big change. The general rule when working with figs is the hotter the better so all major work which includes defoliation, heavy pruning and repotting should be done in summer, like glenda said up north i could repot in winter if i wanted too without harm but down here its another story. I have noticed that port jacksons bounce back the eariest from heavy work , than willowleaf than retusa. I believe weeping figs or benjis may even be slower down here. Your fig may need protection in winter depending on temp etc. any later than feb for work around here you would be pushing it especially if autumn came right on que, the tree needs time to recover and regrow.
cheers

[Webos]

Took some photos today so I'll try to have them up in the next hr or so

[Webos]

Here it is... Let me know which front you like and why... If anyone can ID the species, that would be great

[Mack_187]

That would be a ficus awesomeus !

mack_187

[lennard]

Nice material with lots of potential!

At this stage I would go for IMG_2845a as a potential front.

Lennard

[gollum]

looks like ficus eugenoides,Qld small leaf fig
red petiols

I would wait on anything major unless you know it has been well fed

usually a fig will bounce back quickly if it has plenty of (complex carbs )energy stored in its trunk
Ideally you feed the fig in very early spring(Aug)
6 weeks later it will be ready for any major work
(mid sept) then you can do maintainance work and even re-pot and full defoliate (no later than mid Jan)
this is enough time to get full leaf coverage before winter

if the tree has good sap flow (cut a small branch and see if it bleeds )
then you could do a light prune and 1/3 root prune
wiring is fine to do aswell
give it a week away from wind and a allow a little morning sun
increase the sunlight each day if you want
if it looks good give it more ,if the leaves are starting to wilt give it less

use seasol and thrive only no fert until new growth shows

[Webos]

Thanks a lot for the advice Gollum

[Tony Bebb]

I would use 2842a as the front as I like the roots and the smaller more even trunks. I would also remove the tall sraight trunk at the back (maybe make it another tree and I would do it now) and use the trunk that goes to the left and thin the clunp of branches on the right.

Good advice from Gollum, and I would agree with Qld.S.L. Fig.

Best Regards

Tony

[Webos]

Thanks Tony,
I was thinking that I might use 2841 as the front and reduce the "Pole" so that it blends and the chop is hidden in the back. I think the flare is better that 2842. Of course, I wont be doing anything until I expose the roots under the soil. Who knows what might be hidden under there. How do Figs go with Bare rooting? Since this thing is so potbound, i think that bare rooting might be the best option. The soil is like fine silt.

Thanks again